Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. This only started recently.

If i switch ignition on, but dont start the car, and then turn the key to off, even remove it, the igniton lights stay on.

I have to then start the car, and then switch it off for it to behave normally.

Because i dont usually switch the ignition on without starting the car, i'm not that fussed. but I thought if some knows what it is...possibly a suspect relay or something easy, I could sort it out.

Cheers :)

Edited by Munkyb0y

mongoose m80

oh and it's probably important to mention. the first time this happened was when my battery went totally flat, and i couldnt crank the car over, i was just getting that click click. i turned the key to off position to go grab jumper leads, and the ignition lights stayed on. had never seen it before then.

it has a new battery now, and cranking perfectly.

Edited by Munkyb0y

thanks for your help over the phone leon.

i checked out all the relays and found the problem.

it was a previous modification, whereby the aircon relay is connected to the rad fan relay via a one way diode, which switches the thermo fan on everytime aircon is on. THREAD HERE

when i put it back to stock, the igniton behaved normally.

why is that happening? possibly the diode i used? (1N5404 which is 400V 3A)

what's another way to wire up that fan so it comes on with aircon? coz i can certainly notice an improvement in aircon with it wired up.

cheers

Edited by Munkyb0y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...