Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A new thread just for these two parts only.

Gearbox has been extracted from my car. I'm asking $1200ono for the gearbox includes the crossmember thing to hold it to the car. Can throw in a Exedy heavy duty clutch which is still healthy for $1500 total. Box was pretty nice condition. Once warmed up, there was no biting. Second gear was always abit sticky when cold and just a tad bit harder than other gears.

The motor is also for sale.

It does not include the turbo or turbo manifold, the TPS, the bov with crossover pipe. I can provide it with the parts you need. With everything infront of the firewall, were talking engine loom, nismo 550(or 555cc) injectors, intake manifold throttle body(minus tps), all the pumps and alternators, ill let the motor go for $1500ono. I can strip things off it to provide a cheaper block. I need this gone. I can deliver the parts anywhere in sydney for $150 or feel free to come pick it up.

Both parts have genuine 119xxxkm on it. Headgasket isnt leaking, no noises from the motor, always serviced by my self(oils and what not).

I need this stuff gone really bad, I will NOT refuse reasonable offers. Please someone take these parts from me.

I'm 5 mins from Parramatta.

Private messages arent working for me, my email/msn is [email protected]. Post here before emailing me or adding me so I can verify who you are. Cheers.

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346718-rb25det-motor-r33-gearbox-fs/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

hi

im wonderign whats the lowest price u go for the gear box ?

and were located so i know if i need pik up or post... thanx

A new thread just for these two parts only.

Gearbox has been extracted from my car. I'm asking $1200ono for the gearbox includes the crossmember thing to hold it to the car. Can throw in a Exedy heavy duty clutch which is still healthy for $1500 total. Box was pretty nice condition. Once warmed up, there was no biting. Second gear was always abit sticky when cold and just a tad bit harder than other gears.

The motor is also for sale.

It does not include the turbo or turbo manifold, the TPS, the bov with crossover pipe. I can provide it with the parts you need. With everything infront of the firewall, were talking engine loom, nismo 550(or 555cc) injectors, intake manifold throttle body(minus tps), all the pumps and alternators, ill let the motor go for $1500ono. I can strip things off it to provide a cheaper block. I need this gone. I can deliver the parts anywhere in sydney for $150 or feel free to come pick it up.

Both parts have genuine 119xxxkm on it. Headgasket isnt leaking, no noises from the motor, always serviced by my self(oils and what not).

I need this stuff gone really bad, I will NOT refuse reasonable offers. Please someone take these parts from me.

I'm 5 mins from Parramatta.

Private messages arent working for me, my email/msn is [email protected]. Post here before emailing me or adding me so I can verify who you are. Cheers.

Hi do you still have the gearbox and what do you mean biting and sticky when cold i will also send a copy of this via your email adress call me on 0244435198 if you wish thanks

Sam.......

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...