Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, a small update.

After a week or so on the car, I elected to get underneath to check everything for tightness, and also take this opportunity to go one hole stiffer (maximum) on the front bar.

I discovered this;

post-61153-0-04575100-1297049787_thumb.jpg post-61153-0-08286700-1297049835_thumb.jpgpost-61153-0-42225500-1297049890_thumb.jpg

As you can see, the "D" bush has split into multiple pieces. The other D bush is completely undamaged. The mount itself is completely undamaged. The bar itself and the powdercoat is undamaged. There was no noise or anything that would allude to an issue.

I have removed both and re-installed both factory front D bushes and mounts. Because the bars are both the same diameter, the original bushes are perfectly ok to re-use.

I don't know if mine was a random failure (which I believe is the case) and I will be in touch with Todd to get his opinion tomorrow.

I would urge you all to check the condition of your bushes and tightness of mounting bolts at around 100 km or so.

Please contact me immediately on 0410691143 if you have any concerns whatsoever.

Regards, Dale.

Edited by Daleo

I will be able to get either one, just depending on what people want. Todd is happy to make more, but I need to talk to him about the bushes on the front bar. I'd like to go to a factory style urethane bush, I've found them for the rear, I just need to confirm availability for the front.

Edited by Daleo
  • 1 month later...

Just on the phone with Todd!

He's sending me 2 types of bushes today to trial; I should have them on Monday!

Once I've tested and know which Is appropriate, I'll get Todd to post you a set immediately.

So you should have bushes by Friday next week.

Thanks for your patience with this.

Cheers, Dale

Gahh when's the whiteline GB gonna happen!!!

Soon!

We have to wait until the bars are officially listed as a catalogue item with Whiteline; then we can commence the group buy.

Wayne is putting me in touch with one of his dealers, so we can get the best possible prices, as Whiteline must sell for full retail; they cannot undercut their dealers.

The advantage with this is I will be able to offer an excellent price on other Whiteline products you wish to purchase.

I'm currently manufacturing Heavy Duty rear Sway bar mounts from 316 stainless steel and these will be available very soon also.

These will actually be cheaper than buying an new mount from Nissan.thumbsup.gif

I've been in regular contact with Wayne, and we just have to be patient, I know waiting sucks, but it'll be worth it.

Trust me, I'm busting to get this going; you'll know as soon as I do!

Cheers, Dale.

Soon!

We have to wait until the bars are officially listed as a catalogue item with Whiteline; then we can commence the group buy.

Wayne is putting me in touch with one of his dealers, so we can get the best possible prices, as Whiteline must sell for full retail; they cannot undercut their dealers.

The advantage with this is I will be able to offer an excellent price on other Whiteline products you wish to purchase.

I'm currently manufacturing Heavy Duty rear Sway bar mounts from 316 stainless steel and these will be available very soon also.

These will actually be cheaper than buying an new mount from Nissan.thumbsup.gif

I've been in regular contact with Wayne, and we just have to be patient, I know waiting sucks, but it'll be worth it.

Trust me, I'm busting to get this going; you'll know as soon as I do!

Cheers, Dale.

ye same as any other parent company or company that have franchises like mine as part of the supplier / franchise agreements you cant under cut them , its bad business as they are the front for your company who help u profit by selling your shit

the discounts will be the reduction in franchise or dealer mark up

unless you work for the parent company then u just milk it with company discount / product cost

will be keen on these man looking to get the bars the links and ur mounts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...