Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took the race car back to the workshop because the turbos were blown - noisey whistle as they spooled up.

Turbos showed evidence of oil starvation so I got an oil analysis done. results below.

This is on a 7 day old production race motor.

oil1.jpg

oil2.jpg

oil3.jpg

The main thing I understand is the smiley face.

Also interested to hear from anyone who does regular oil analysis as part of a preventative schedule

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It does have a sad smiley. And I think 94x the acceptable level of bearing material might be a sign too.

No I have never used the redline oil before. Interesting that their analysis shows it is outside the expected range for 15w50 at 100oC. Whatever the expected range is at 100oC

I wonder why there is a shit load of lead in the oil?

Unless you are doing the sneaky sneaky and running Sunoco MaxNos lol

Is this the same block you have always been using? or is it a different block to the others you have killed?

Shit, that's not a bad price for the oil analysis, I would have thought it would be more. I wouldn't mind doing one with the new Dimple sump plug.

Also, where can I get my hands on your engine: RB2BPETT lol

lol at strange engine number. not sure what the P stands for either.

I assume copper and lead make up tri metal ACL bearings. that is why i was wondering who knows how to read/explain these things.

The block is a virgin in my use, although it was second hand and machined including 0.5mm overbore before this use.

not good duncan. I'll point Dan to this thread as he does all of my oil analysis and has had some in depth discussions with the oil test guys, but i think you have already in the nail on the head with the copper/lead being the different layers of the bearings.

The change in oil viscocity could be due to fuel dilution. 7.2% is quite high (i think mine is around 3.5-4%) and would have a significant impact on the viscocity of the oil.

p.s. we use WearCheck for our oil analysis, and i think they are a bit cheaper than that ($40 or less a pop if memory serves)

Edited by Strik3r

yeah I found that interesting too. 2x the acceptable level of fuel. petrol is not a good lubricant.

zeb, it is an entirely new bottom end, head was machined and re-used from an old motor, not the last one. unlikely (but never impossible) that it is related to a single bad part.

what about the clutch/flywheel or gearbox input shaft?

Something must be causing the crank to not move the way it should, not saying this engine is dead as I can understand bearing material wiping off in the 1st few hours of engine start.

But the fact that it keeps picking up bearings tells me that there is something not quite right.

indeed. new clutch and flywheel on this motor. same gearbox for years but new spigot bush, and they are all outside the sump anyway. FWIW also new harmonic balancer on this motor

Well I would say once the turbos go back on, give it a good run with new oil and test the oil again, fingers crossed it doesnt run a bearing in the mean time.

Oh btw did you find out what was causing the over heating on the last motor?

I'm thinking that the dead turbos maybe caused by the same thing? maybe the turbo oil and water lines are a bit blocked?

Oh and what i meant by the gearbox, is that the input shaft is not gun barrel straight it may be causing the back of the crank to move up and down.

Its a long shot, but may be possible

LOL I feel like I'm on myth Busters.

yeah but that would cause big spigot wear first right

overheating on the last motor was due to coolant loss (ie pressure test would have found the problem, but I never did one). eventually it did a head gasket from overheating which is fair enough.

BTW I don't want to give the impression I have had lots of spun bearing motors. I have had a few but reasons for each (oil system mistake, bearing clearance mistake and original factory motor). Also killed one with a dying fuel pump causing pinging. Killed 2 from overheating (both dead head gaskets - the one above and one because the radiator was too short for factory mounts).

The real question is - what does this analysis tell me other than the obvious (ie bearings are f**ked). No chance I am running the motor without tearing it down.

Easy one, dirty build mate.

See the iron content, thats your engine hone floating around in your oil. Id also go as far to say the cross block oil feed was partially blocked by bearing material from its previous life (engine that spun bearing) this also crosses with the evidence.

Id be keen to see the bearing wear especially the mains close to the centre of the block (3,4,5).

The fuel levels are also a concern, does whoever tune this thing want the rings to never bed in properly?

Edited by Supa Steve

Ah yeah fair enough, I was there at OP when the head gasket went...you should remember you forgot my seat! lol

I thought you had a few more die than that, that were un-explained, but if you know the causes than Ima shut up lol

thanks supa steve. BTW I am not sure of the previous life of this particular block, it may or may not have had a spun bearing before. I got it second hand and machined it.

oilcheck site suggests alumnium and silica are signs of dirt, mine are both outside normal but not flagged as critical like the bearing indicators. not arguing, just trying to learn....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...