Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, im posting this up for a close friend of mine.

Please for any inquiries contact him direct as hes not on this site.

Car is in Adelaide

Anthony Williams (0401 372 083)

post-17717-0-88959900-1291977667_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-34376800-1291977739_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-59322400-1291977786_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-21859800-1291977832_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-99946000-1291977874_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-57648500-1291977956_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-25779200-1291978007_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-16055900-1291978058_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-93210100-1291978109_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-18422900-1291978159_thumb.jpg

post-17717-0-55685600-1291978213_thumb.jpg

Engine:

RB_23Ltr

Engine block acid washed and sonic tested

bored and plateau honed to suit 81.5mm 4AG-ZE Forged and ceramic coated pistons

deck machined to set correct piston to deck height

RB25 crankshaft ground and linished to suit 10 thou larger main and conrod bearings

Eagle forged rods with ARP bolts (have custom small end bearing/bush to suit 19mm gudgeon pin of the toyota piston

completely balanced rotating assembally

N1 oil pump

Acl race series (rb26dett) main and conrod bearings

Grant chrome piston rings

ARP head studs

Tomei 3 layer head gasket (83 mm bore hole) suit larger pistons

completely rebuilt cylinder head, valve grind, seats, guides, seals etc.

OS Giken adjustable cam gears

PFI alloy fuel rail

1000cc denso injectors

genuine nissan jecs low impedence pack

ceramic coated highmount steam pipe manifold and dump pipe

Garrett 30-76, 0.7 comp cover, 0.64 exhaust exhaust housing, with the larger of the 3 gt-30 ex wheels

braided turbo oil and water lines

braided fuel lines (non corrosive)

malpassi fuel pressure regulator

Bosch z32 air flow metre

complete MSD Ignition system

Apexi Power FC with hand controller

ORC super single clutch and flywheel

Rb25 gearbox (with brand new genuine slave and fluid lines)

Mspec alloy radiator and front mount intercooler

custom alloy overflow tank, power steer reservoir and duel entry catch can with one way valve drain back to sump

Bosch 044 and surge tank, with gtr in tank prime pump

Suspension, brakes and handling:

ISC front and rear coilovers (height and damper adjustable)

Complete R32 GTR rear end conversion (inc mechanical diff, big half shafts and sway bar)

Isc Hicas lock bar

just jap upper rear camber arms

welded and strengthened rear lower control arms

Front and rear GTR brake conversion (calipers fully rebuilt)

GTR brake booster (also rebuilt, new seals etc)

New BN-44 GTR brake master cyl

Hydraulic handbrake (PBR master cyl)

Custom steering knuckles and lock spacers

Ikeya formula tie rods and tir rod ends

Kazama castor rods

NRG engine damper

Exhaust:

Straight through stainless steel 3 inch with v band ceramic coated dump pipe with twin 3 inch pipes at the back

Exterior:

Origin carbon fiber vented bonnett

origin 25mm wide body front fenders

rear guards rolled and flared

D-max front and rear bars with matching side skirts

D-max carbon fiber roof spoiler

Work vs-kfs - 18x9.5 and 18x10.5 Heeps of dish

Satin black paint, Brand new

Interior:

2x bride low max race seats

Vdo electrical gauges - oil press, oil temp, water temp and boost

Nardi dish steering wheel

Hydraulic handbrake

Alloy boot-cabin divider

This engine is brand new, It runs absoloutley perfect in every way.

It has a close tune on the power fc for start, and running.. the tune is from another engine the same as this we had built that a certain tuner had disconnected

the electric water pump thinking it was the thermo fans to get it warm as the elec water pump liked to run slighly cooler. long story short previous engine went

over to about 135 degrees and cooked everything (nothing was retrievable)the tune was finished by this point although this is another brand new engine and in my eyes no 2 engines

are the same, so if somebody does take this they will need to have tune checked and run in. right now it runs on e85 the last engine made well over 300rwkw.

Im not to fussed about selling this car or not, I am moving to Japan in march, and i was always going to take it as i pay bugger all through my shipping agency anyway.

But if there is some serious ppl out there that want a very serious car to use for either circuit or drift and they have the correct money to pay, then i will let it go before i leave.

If any interested persons want further pictures, txt me and i can send, or arrange a time to view the car.

Price: $18,000

As above: contact Anthony Williams (0401 372 083)

Thankyou.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347154-s13-silvia-23ltr-built-race-car/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...