Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I just bought my 2003 v35 coupe last weekend (Will post pics of it up soon). And have now noticed that the drivers side door 90% of the time does not lock/unlock via the remote.

I wound the drivers window down and closed the door. when i press lock/unlock on the remote, i can see the door lock on the inside move a couple of milimeters.

I've read up on this and it seems that it is a common issue with these cars.

I bought the car from a dealer and it is still under the 3-month statutory warrenty. This is the first time i've bought a car from a dealer, so i've never claimed warrenty.

I rang up my dealer and he said to take the car to an auto electrician or a mechanic and get a quote from them to fix it, and because of i have statutory warrenty, they're suppose to fax the quote off to the warrenty place (national warrenty company) to get approval...

Just wondering from you guys if this is the procedure or not, as im scared that ill get declined and have to pay for the repairs myself.

Would you guys suggest i take it to an auto electician or a mechanic.

Also, would taking it to a Nissan dealership be better?

Sorry about all the questions, im very new to all this.

Im also located in Brisbane too, so if you guys can recommend me someone to take it to that would be great.

Thanks.

Hi Guys,

I just bought my 2003 v35 coupe last weekend (Will post pics of it up soon). And have now noticed that the drivers side door 90% of the time does not lock/unlock via the remote.

I wound the drivers window down and closed the door. when i press lock/unlock on the remote, i can see the door lock on the inside move a couple of milimeters.

I've read up on this and it seems that it is a common issue with these cars.

I bought the car from a dealer and it is still under the 3-month statutory warrenty. This is the first time i've bought a car from a dealer, so i've never claimed warrenty.

I rang up my dealer and he said to take the car to an auto electrician or a mechanic and get a quote from them to fix it, and because of i have statutory warrenty, they're suppose to fax the quote off to the warrenty place (national warrenty company) to get approval...

Just wondering from you guys if this is the procedure or not, as im scared that ill get declined and have to pay for the repairs myself.

Would you guys suggest i take it to an auto electician or a mechanic.

Also, would taking it to a Nissan dealership be better?

Sorry about all the questions, im very new to all this.

Im also located in Brisbane too, so if you guys can recommend me someone to take it to that would be great.

Thanks.

Hi mate, congrats on your purchase of your V35.

Yes, the window/door lock issues are some of the common problems on the V35, and it often happen every 2-3 years depending on the usage of the car. The procedure you mentioned of going to an auto electrician or a mechanic, getting the quote and faxing it to the warranty company sounds like a right procedure. My suggestion, in your case, is to fix it quickly before the warranty runs out.

Are you sure you only got 3 months warranty time frame? I bought mine from a dealer in Perth and I took up 3 years warranty time frame. Also, my dealer got a car service centre together with the show room so they already have auto electricians and mechanics. So when I had my window/door problems, I just went to them. They fixed it up, gave me a warranty slip with all the details in it, and I send it off to the warranty company through post.

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

Edited by Victor.T

Hi mate, congrats on your purchase of your V35.

Yes, the window/door lock issues are some of the common problems on the V35, and it often happen every 2-3 years depending on the usage of the car. The procedure you mentioned of going to an auto electrician or a mechanic, getting the quote and faxing it to the warranty company sounds like a right procedure. My suggestion, in your case, is to fix it quickly before the warranty runs out.

Are you sure you only got 3 months warranty time frame? I bought mine from a dealer in Perth and I took up 3 years warranty time frame. Also, my dealer got a car service centre together with the show room so they already have auto electricians and mechanics. So when I had my window/door problems, I just went to them. They fixed it up, gave me a warranty slip with all the details in it, and I send it off to the warranty company through post.

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.

Hi Victor,

Thanks for your reply. I was told by me dealer that statutory warranty covers the 3months after i purchase the car. He basicly said that if the car does not work as Nissan intended it to within the 3 months, they have to fix it at their own cost and that it was part of the law (not sure if he was blowing smoke up my ass or not). I also have 5 years extended warranty on the car aswell (with national warranty company).

Im not sure what the difference is with statutory warranty and extended warranty.

But i guess ill just ring around a few places and get quotes on how much to fix this. Quick question though, did you have to pay for the fix and then the warranty reimbursed you or did the warranty company pay for it all first.

Cheers for your help mate.

Hi Victor,

Thanks for your reply. I was told by me dealer that statutory warranty covers the 3months after i purchase the car. He basicly said that if the car does not work as Nissan intended it to within the 3 months, they have to fix it at their own cost and that it was part of the law (not sure if he was blowing smoke up my ass or not). I also have 5 years extended warranty on the car aswell (with national warranty company).

Im not sure what the difference is with statutory warranty and extended warranty.

But i guess ill just ring around a few places and get quotes on how much to fix this. Quick question though, did you have to pay for the fix and then the warranty reimbursed you or did the warranty company pay for it all first.

Cheers for your help mate.

You are welcome, mate.

Sorry I wouldn't know the differences between statutory and extended warranty. For me, the warranty covers and pays for it (All I have to do is send through the warranty paper slip with details in it from my warranty book by post to the warranty company). Of course it only covers for mechanical and electrical problems, not drivetrain or performance part of the car. :P

Let me know if you want more information from me. Good luck again.

have a read here:

http://www.fairtradi...ed-vehicles.htm

Stat warranty is different to the 3 yr/5 yr warranty you get from car yards.

If I were you I'd take in to them and have them arranged to fix it. They shouldn't have to get approval or what ever bullshit he's feeding you. The dealership should be fixing this - not claiming from there "national warranty" crap.

If they give you any grief then call QLD Fairtrading....but ask the dealership nicely 1st after you've done your research.

See here:

http://www.fairtrading.qld.gov.au/real-story-car-warranty.htm

The dealer should be arranging this....

Edited by ironpaw

have a read here:

http://www.fairtradi...ed-vehicles.htm

Stat warranty is different to the 3 yr/5 yr warranty you get from car yards.

If I were you I'd take in to them and have them arranged to fix it. They shouldn't have to get approval or what ever bullshit he's feeding you. The dealership should be fixing this - not claiming from there "national warranty" crap.

If they give you any grief then call QLD Fairtrading....but ask the dealership nicely 1st after you've done your research.

See here:

http://www.fairtradi...ar-warranty.htm

The dealer should be arranging this....

Cheers mate, i thought so. It seems like the dealer is trying to palm me off to the extended warranty. Ill ring them up and let them know.

Strangely enough though. I've been testing the lock/unlocking with the fob today and it has worked fine all day...

There isnt some sort of "safety" feature on these cars are there? where if i pressed lock, the car wouldnt lock unless i leave it alone for a certain period of time?

When i was testing it last night, i would lock it, check the handle straight after and it wasnt locked.

Im guessing its an intermittent problem, would rather have it replaced now then later when my stat warranty runs out.

It sounds to me like they might be trying to dodge the repair, to save themselves some cash. :whistling:

Stay on them, anything within that 3 month period must be fixed at the DEALERS expense. Hopefully they'll come through for you, sometimes they try it on; to see if you know the rules. Shouldn't happen, but it's human nature to take the easy out for some...

Also remember most extended warranties will only cover to a certain dollar value on most repairs, so you may be hit with a bill at the end. Read the policy carefully before claiming, sometimes, you can be better off to have the repairs done yourself, by your own mechanic rather than pay full freight, plus "warranty policy" mark up on parts...

It can also be very hard to prove a repair is warranted on "intermitttent" faults. They may claim it never played up while they have it, but you'll have it fail as soon as you get it back.

Edited by Daleo
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...