Jump to content
SAU Community

20 Inch Wheels On R33 (Work Meisters)

Granthem
 Share

Recommended Posts

alr33x Grand Master

alr33x

Posted
Posted

20s look stupid on the front of skylines the lack of tyre sidewall and the raised hieght is ridiculous..

Now if your were to pick up some 18s for the front,it will make your steering easier and better, it will make your your frontend lower giving the car a mean rake with the front being slightly lower than the rear and generally all your problems will be solved and your car will look tuff as balls..

Thats my 2c anyway ,if you wanna keep your stupid 20s on the front then i have no further advice..

yeh agree

but 18s front 20's rear is even more gay.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeh agree

but 18s front 20's rear is even more gay.

see i dunno cause i havent seen it done yet..usually people only have an inch difference between front and back, remember seeing a S14 with 18s and 19s and it looked shit hot, same goes for 17s-18s on skylines.. i see alot of the street machine crowd do 18s and 20s (or 20s and 22s) and it can look really tuff, but yeah, thats a different style of car..Yet to see it on a skyline..I think the main thing really is to have the tyre sidewalls close to the same size so everything looks in proportion.. :thumbsup:

Edited by Arthur T3
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I definitely wouldn't go 2 inches smaller on the front. Placing these things next to my current 18s makes them look like 16s.

It would be too bigger difference. 19 up front, 20 on the rear I have seen done before.

But honestly its all work to chase up. 20s all around is easier, because i already have them :D Sure I cant lower the front to the ground, but considering I get pulled up nearly weekly and checked for ride height, that doesnt bother me.

This car is a daily, so i cant slam it and camber it as much as I'd like :(

Edited by Granthem
Taleb Tyres Proficient

Taleb Tyres

Posted
Posted

I like how you added work meisters after the 20" so as not to get flamed( as bad!)

245 40 is way too big for the R33(looks like bad camber wear so they need changing anyway). if you didnt want to run a 225 30 20 you could run a 235 30 20 for the front.

By doing this you wont have to do any grinding, but if you had to you could grind away at the little lip of the upper control arm.

Does the tyre bulge out past the rim? because with a 8.5" +25 the wheel shoudnt be that close to the side of the arm?

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I like how you added work meisters after the 20" so as not to get flamed( as bad!)

245 40 is way too big for the R33(looks like bad camber wear so they need changing anyway). if you didnt want to run a 225 30 20 you could run a 235 30 20 for the front.

By doing this you wont have to do any grinding, but if you had to you could grind away at the little lip of the upper control arm.

Does the tyre bulge out past the rim? because with a 8.5" +25 the wheel shoudnt be that close to the side of the arm?

Haha I knew it would turn to a flame thread unless I was clear on the type of rim!

Yeh the tires on the rims are rooted, so Ive got the chance to start a fresh and make sure it all fits correctly on my car. I think I'll run a 225 up front just to be safe.

And I am thinking a 235/30 on the rear rim (9.5inch wide).

Thats the plan atm, trying to keep the rolling diameters sorta close between front and back (throwing a 225 on 9.5 inch rim isnt a good idea imo, so ill have to go bigger at the rear)

No the 245 doesnt bulge atm, the wheel is slightly turned in the pics, making the tire look like it sits further under then it really does (when straight)

  • 3 weeks later...
Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Using the 1010tires calculator even a 245/30/20 will have a smaller rolling diameter then the current 245/45/18 I am running up front. Rolling diameter is reduced by 677.67mm to 654.81mm with the 245/30/20.

So its probably just easier to run with 245/30/20s all around.

Any opinions on this?

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
Posted

Can I ask what you ended up needing to do to make this all fit?

I've just found some 20" D1R's that i think would look amazing on my R33 GTST

I've got rolled guards front and rear, and flared rears

Currently running 18x +30 all round with 25mm bolt on spacers on the rear and it looks neat.

Thinking of going 8.5 +32 fronts and 10" +32 rears with the 25mm spacer :)

Is 235/30 tyres the secret to front fitment, or is there more to it than that?

Isaac

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...