Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you just said you rarely rev it past 3000rpm

why do you think it must be some torque monster down low? it's a 2 litre straight 6

you will get more torque down low fro ma 4 cylinder because the pistons are bigger, the trade off is that being a 6 cylinder it will rev higher and easier

sell your car now because you have no idea

Edited by mystery_kid

Hey all,

I purchased my r32 only like a month or 2 ago.

The car feels very slow/sluggish until boost kicks in.

I get munched by little yaris/jazz/swifts etc... at the lights (just driving normally)

Boost on car does not kick in until atleast 4-4.5k!

Car has fair bit of work done to it.

CAI

Pod

FMIC

3" TBE

Pon cams

Cam gears

Bigger injectors

Better coilpacks

Z32 AFM

Upgraded fuel pump

Bigger turbo

Nistune ecu (can't remember if that's the correct name)

Few other bits.

I hardly ever floor/race my car as turbo lags and it drinks so much petrol... i'm a GRANNY driver! LOL.

However when i drive normally it's so slow/sluggish... all these cars just overtake me and the ones driving behind me get's frustrated that i'm so slow.

Car does not feel like a straight 6 down low in the rev unless turbo kicks in. Getting overtaken and beaten by 1.3L is a disgrace!

Is this normal or what's up with the car?

Any advice/help would be great.

Thanks guys.

Ok dude I have exactly the same set up as you minus the cams and cam gear and I make 230 rwkw on my rb20det.

The RB is very reluctant to release torque before 3000rpm. Remember...

1) It's a turbo and turbos are designed to make power when they are on boost - NOT ON VACCUM. My boost starts to come on at about 3300 rpm and this is when the car starts to become torquey and fun.

2) Its a tiny displacement 6cyl turbo with less combustion to push more cylinders than any other nissan inline turbo.

With this said however there are a couple of things you can do to combat the lag (apart from getting a tune which I would recommend first as mine is not very laggy even down low)

1) Regap plugs to 0.8mm

2) Buy a performance flywheel

3) Get a proper, sealed and insulated cold air intake...any exposed pods in the engine bay will be sacrificing horses due to heat.

4) Practice launching the car as you get next to no lag off a good launch and this can be a drag launch or an every day town launch

5) Swap in an rb25det (which i personally could never bring myself to do as the rb20 is the sweetest sounding engine in the world)

James

i rarely got past 3k.

so ur saying if i keep all gear changes under 3k without kicking the turbo in then from stat to finish ill always be slower/behind other cars?

even lilttle 1.3,1.5L etcc are faster/ahead of me?

dunnoo. if u guys get what i'm talking about but yer... maybe u needa be in the car to understand..

everyone that sits in my car thinks its slow cos i keep it under 3k and not let the turbo kick in... but boy do they get a surprise when i rev it though..

lollll..

i'll get a retune and fix a few little stuff and see how i go..

=)

Lol rb20s are crap down low with the stock turbo, one making 240kw will be absolutely gutless below 3.5k, I wouldn't be surprised if 1.5L non vtec civics and barinas are faster off the line due to the conservative cams and variable valve timing they have.

You NEED to rev it to go anywhere, I'm talking 4.5k for daily driving otherwise why the hell did you buy it? should have just bought a commodore if you want to drive around at 3k lol. The fuel economy should be fine revving it out with daily driving, my 240kw rb25 gets a beating everyday and it manages 14.5L/100km with stop start peak hour driving so I really can't see how you could be worse than that, you would be lucky to get it below 12L/100km anyway.

So drive it like a skyline or sell it, I don't understand why anyone would buy a skyline and drive it under 3k everyday, it is a puny little 2L six, that is equivalent of a 1.3L 4 cylinder if you take 2 cylinders off it lol, TINY engine with cams and a turbo that suit high revs.

Its a short stroke, low compression engine, I have no doubt that a lighter non turbo eccono box is faster in that rev range, its what they are designed to do, where as the RB20 is designed for revs (short stroke) and boost (Low compression)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...