Jump to content
SAU Community

Exhaust Options

slinky-minky

By slinky-minky,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

slinky-minky Community Regular

slinky-minky

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi everyone,

Am looking at getting a little more noise (being that it's all stealth like and silent at the moment, to the point I can't even hear it running sometimes)

I have been told that the cheapest option with max sound would be a cannon however I dunno if I like that idea :S

1) are they even legal? Because pretty much every cop I've come across hates cannons

2)Will it even sound any good on a N/A

3) Will it look like an experiement from the Western Suburbs

4) I don't want any loss of power

Second option

Replace it with a high flow rear muffler; Not sure about costs of this yet as I haven't rang around/looked on ebay,

Any budget conscious suggestions would be really appreciated, and please no one suggest puncturing it with a screw driver

Is the pipe diameter called 2.25 or 2.5??? Brenton will be installing it for me. Car is a 99 34 GTV

EDIT: Basic idea of what I'm trying to achieve is *Little more noise; enough to make it sound like a Skyline *No loss of power; I can live with the silence if I'm going to loose to much power * Not wanting it to look like an experiment; would like clean and sleek.

Edited by slinky-minky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/
Share on other sites
l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted

Being an NA. I would look towards a 2.5" Catback system with a Sports muffler (but not a cannon). Its all well and good to go a cannon. Noise with a cannon is awesome when your on the power, but not that much fun when your trying to just drive around unnoticed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/#findComment-5598208
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

You'd probably go a decent 2.25" / 2.5" on a N/A and go with an Oval shape muffler.

Fujitsubo make very good quite mufflers or any Oval shape muffler.

Or get a custom made one and get a sound test done.

Nothing over 90 db and you'll be fine.

Or goto a 2nd hand parts dealer (Import Monster) and get a decent full exhaust.

Don't get anything too loud, cuz you'd be "All Show, No Go".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/#findComment-5598210
Share on other sites
slinky-minky Community Regular

slinky-minky

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanx, my partner is going to make it up but he said he was just going to join the new rear muffler where the stock 1 is then run a pipe and some twin tips he has exhaust pipe the same diamater from his stock fto system and was going to weld the new muffler on after the last flange when it straightens out. will get an oval with no bends inside it so it dosent stick out. only want it a bit louder so this will be good.

btw im on a budget or i would do a better job lol, brenton is going to loosen the flangebolts so i can get a temporary preview of what it will sound like lol, any thoughts on how to make this cheaper/easier/better sounding(considering the last 2 factors)? thanx!

what is the actual diamater of the stock piping?

Edited by slinky-minky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/#findComment-5598339
Share on other sites
slinky-minky Community Regular

slinky-minky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Brenton: gtv r34 with no rear muffler sounds pretty damn awesome and beefy, bit raspy too but in a good way. chantalle is thinkin of gettin a workshop in melb to do it depending on the prices, she dosent car if the bends are press bent so hopefully it wont come to heaps, think she wants it done for 150 or so, tops. any places that are cheap, to recommend?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/#findComment-5598821
Share on other sites
(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

My mechanic can do it but he's in Templestowe, a bit far for you I guess...

- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348109-exhaust-centre-in-western-suburbsas-far-out-as-epping-area/

Check this tread out Brenton.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348068-exhaust-options/#findComment-5599700
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...