Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If your getting traction once the tyres warm up then it might be worth trying some different tyres that will work when cold. I've got 265KW and use federal 595SS and they hold traction really well, well in the dry anyway. i've put some different tyres on the back before and it was nothing but wheelspin. Other than that you could run less boost or get a tuner to adjust the tune so you get more traction in the top end which sounds lame (less power) but it will work out to be quicker than wheelspin.

Yeah it becomes an expensive exercise changing tyres...!

I think i'd like to try the ABS signal -> Haltech torque reduction feature... sounds pretty neat.

When the car was on the dyno for an E50 tune, after a few runs the things were like glue. But even spinning them like mad all the way to work (10kms) when i get there they certainly ain't sticky... they cost me $600 a pop and i spent AGES researching and heard rave reviews but perhaps they were more track oriented...? :ermm:

Yeah sounds like they are more track oriented. KU36s can be had for $240-280 even for wide rears. Its important to work out what driving you do and what tyres suit best. I just went through that recently and I mostly either just commute and occasionally have a quick squirt so I need the tyres up to temp quick and doesnt matter if they get hot after 3-4 laps as I dont do anything like that. I can spend more to get better track performance and wet weather performance but I dont drive hard in the wet anyway either.

Dont throw your current tyres out just wait till they are stuffed. At the rate you are wheelspinning it shouldnt be too long haha

Go for a drive and if you lay 2 lines then dont worry about the diff. A good diff is more for getting the power down earlier out of corners but generally you sacrifice noise and shuddering etc. Your complaint of wheelspin in a straight line is not going to be solved by a diff if its already turning both wheels.

I had a Cusco diff... was the one with the springs in it to lessen the clunking/banging... it was still noisy and would shudder sometimes but well worth it to get the car handling properly IMO

+1

1.5 wasy nismo gt lsd pro tt over here... i fkn LOVE my diff

Im not sure if its the same story but I swapped out my whole rear cradle for a GTR one, mines a R33 GTS-T though.

Much better hook up, no more open wheeling, and the axles/half shafts are bigger as well.

The whole swap cost less than a new aftermarket center.

Mark

PS RWDFTW

+1

1.5 wasy nismo gt lsd pro tt over here... i fkn LOVE my diff

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

Edited by Jap_Muscle

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

What setup have you got that's making 300 by 4k rpm? Traction would be an issue with that i'm sure! My 300 (on E50) is not up til 5.5k rpm.

But if your diff is gone then you will still get wheelspin when your expensive tyre is heated up. But you dont, therefore it would seem getting some tyres that get up to temp quickly is your first avenue.

But if your diff is gone then you will still get wheelspin when your expensive tyre is heated up. But you dont, therefore it would seem getting some tyres that get up to temp quickly is your first avenue.

Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...

Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...

Yup gotcha, there is definitely place for a nice diff just didnt want to see you doing it to chase this issue.

Joey,

What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?

My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days

Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?

the car hooks up instantly every time and goes IN A STRAIGHT LINE when the wheels spin ;)

for a car with that much power dont go the TT model tho, just get the normal model and deal with the noise :)

what do you use the car for?

yeh i notice mine always kicks out to the drivers side ALL the time.

The cars a street drag car. Custom drag suspension and all that. No sideways action at all.

seriously considering a LSD but i think some Drag radials should be next

i'd probably look at a nismo/kaaz 2 way then.... it's an absolutely amazing upgrade for a car, but if you're going to go drag radials, dont get the tt... just get the noisiest, clunkiest strongest one you can ;)

if your car is crabwalking you aren't putting down all your power, so it's just a waste :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...