Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people, as my other add has had no interest for the full car minus engine so I'm now going to part it out.

First up:

R33 5spd gearbox $1000

Custom speedo sender unit $200

One piece tail shaft (suits R33 box into R32 gts-t) $350

Gearbox mount (home job, not the best) $50

R33 GTR V-spec rotors and brackets/bolts to space caliper (rotors worn) $300

4 puk clutch (excedy, near new) $350

Alloy radiator $150

Intercooler $200

Custom 4L catch can (replaces battery for boot mount battery) $220

GTR plenum $250

GTR injector manifold $150

GTR throttle bodies $300

Bride rails both sides $300

Cobra Daytona II seats x2 (excellent condition RRP $900each) $900 for both

Orange indicators LHS/RHS $180

RHS projector type headlight $180

LHS inner fog light type headlight $180

R33 engine fan and clutch $120

Tail lights $110each

Car is complete minus engine so if you require any other parts please PM me, I still need to move it to another location early next year so I may try to keep suspension working until mid Jan but lots more parts will be available.

Cheers,

Daniel

Will the front bar fit gtst 2 door and have you got 32 plastic surround is it the same message me prices posted Vic 3037 need more interior things

Thanks for all the pm's and replies. I will get to each of them ASAP, I have received an offer on the complete car and am giving them a chance to make a deposit before I continue to sell more parts. Thanks again for your patience.

Edited by =premo=

Continuing with selling parts, thanks for everyone's patience. All PM's replied to, let me know if I've missed anyone.

Radiator pics, it was given to me as a gift so not sure where it came from but it was new and fits well. Has a drain (I have a plastic bung for it) and thremo switch threaded holes. Welds are good and dowels fit rubbers but you have to install with top mounts flipped, never had trouble with over heating or leaks.

post-16618-0-03556800-1293972586_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-69692900-1293972653_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-19704800-1293972725_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Some pictures of car as is. Hasn't moved for a few months and I probably should have cleaned it before storing it as its hard to move without engine.

post-16618-0-57576600-1294025769_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-82052800-1294025800_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-26915700-1294025855_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-42775000-1294025897_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-56810700-1294025963_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-25663500-1294026037_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-77523400-1294026111_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-66793500-1294026191_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-36455900-1294026235_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-18714100-1294026280_thumb.jpg

Also selling Apexi AVC-R boost controller. Limited Black edition, Its been hardly used due to running at the lowest spring setting of the waste gate I had.

Regretful sale as I love it but it wont wire up to a Datto so no point in having it.

$500

Apexi N1 cat back, little bit flat on the bottom and a bit dented but sounds freaking awesome. Can include rubber mounts or sell separately. $150 N1 cat back and $20 for Rubbers

Apexi N1 cat back, little bit flat on the bottom and a bit dented but sounds freaking awesome. Can include rubber mounts or sell separately. $150 N1 cat back and $20 for Rubbers

how much do ya want for the front bar ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...