Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pictures for the fans.

Center consol needs clean but good condition $35 or $45 with lid and ash tray

Larger altenator and cut bracket/spacers to make it fit $130 (new 300km's ago)

RB26 rocker covers $150 the lot

Radiator shroud $15

Coil packs $20ea or $90 for all

Engine mounts make an offer (also have rubbers)

Gear box rubber make an offer

Cam angle sensor $60

GTR fuel rail $20

Complete GTR inlet side setup $750

Strut braces as above

Floor mats with skyline center plate $35 the lot

Indicators as above

post-16618-0-56627500-1295589726_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-99419300-1295589831_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-29020200-1295589991_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-28145300-1295590123_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-64333000-1295590253_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-47247300-1295590376_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-63548700-1295590505_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-67952000-1295590634_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-32257600-1295590769_thumb.jpg

post-16618-0-27015300-1295590891_thumb.jpg

I've got a wiring harness for a RB26 into a R32 gts-t but thats it sorry.

Need to get the rest of car gone as I'd like to use space for a new project.

Thanks

I've already sold wheels to friends but you can have what its rolling on 2x 17 inch tracer 2's for $220 and stock wheels $50each.

Don't have hicas rack but I do have rod's with ends and good condition boots $100, less if you buy more, just a pain to get tapered ends undone from hubs.

PM sent for guard, vent, etc

Dropping prices

Intercooler $140

R33 front disk conversion setup $200 (very good buy, paid $400)

Shortened front upper control arms $60

Custom catch can $150

Hydrolic handbrake setup $130

Head lights $100 each

Tail lights $80 each

Indicators $120 the pair

Strut braces front and rear $65each

Front bar $100

Apexi N1 cat back $80

New larger alternator $100

Doors (complete minus trims with approved intrusion bars for compliance) $80each

Bonnet $100

Boot $70

Whole car $2000 with everything above included and lots more

GTR inlet setup $600

50 bucks for the Apexi N1? as long as its not rusty or anything bad - chuck me a pm if your interested.

Edited by Cadavre

hey mate can u pm me pics of the handbrake? and does it come with all the lines?

also pics on the front bar.

cheers

how much for r32 - rb26 wiring harness conversion thing? and is this just to plug a stock rb26 into a r32 gtst sedan?

and front disc conversion setup does not come with calipers?

Edited by HIZOKU

how much for r32 - rb26 wiring harness conversion thing? and is this just to plug a stock rb26 into a r32 gtst sedan?

and front disc conversion setup does not come with calipers?

Its to fit a RB26 engine into a gts-t car. It is basically a GTR engine loom with a ballister pack for the GTR injectors (normaly on the GTR car loom) and a couple wires moved to make the dash and car plugs work. Had it fitted to a RB30/26 with all GTR sensors and a Apexi power FC dejetro. Easy enough to use it with AFM's and stock or other ECU.

I bought the two parts to the stock GTR looms for $550 but I realise I'm not going to get that much for it so if you PM me an offer I'll let you know.

$200 is for brackets and disks but I will take offers, calipers are $200 for fronts but I might keep them for my zed.

All PM's replied, thanks people

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...