1St Time 100K Km Service Done

[bayslideblue]

Hi there!

I just finished doing the 100 000 km service on my stag using the kudos motorsport's kit plus a few extra bits (O2 sensor, ancillary belts etc).

the moment when I got the new belt on :-)

I helped a mate change the timing belt on his peugot once, but this is the first time I've changed one on my own. And all is good, just about anyway ;-)

I mostly used this guide - http://www.scribd.co...lt-on-a-RB25DET

So just a couple of things-

First off; When I took the timing belt cover off I noticed that the timing belt that was on there was not a Nissan one?? Then when I went to change the old water pump I noticed that it was stuck on with gasket glue, and didn't have what I'd assumed would be a factory paper gasket.

Now My odometer reads 98 000, but obviously the timing belt and potentially waterpump have already been replaced so....... has it already had the 100k service and has my clock been wound back? Or my motor been replaced? How do I check this? Fast?

Secondly I was wondering about timing adjustment.

I recently purchased a consult cable and have been using ECU talk, which is awesome! Before I did the service the timing was 10deg @~700rpm, according to the timing read out on ECU talk. After the service it now reads 0deg @~700rpm. So I must have put the cam angle sensor slightly back of it's previous mark.

I know that it is supposed to be 15deg @~650rpm, so should I adjust the idle first then do the timing? Also would it be fine just to adjust the timing using ECU talk instead of a timing light?

And finally will it make any difference for the timing/idle if it's got some mods and nistune chip and dyno tune? Or should it still be 15deg @~650rpm.

What do you think?

Some christmas cheer

[milkchicken]

Hey,

There is many reasons why the timing belt may have been done. It may have had a leaking Water pump, and while they were in there they replaced the belt as well. There could have been a leaking oil seal, so they did it all in there. There is always the possibilities that the clock was woud back, if you have any stickers on the drivers door, service stickers from japan you can always see, if there is more km's on the last sticker than what was on your car when you got it. then it may have been wound back. Its hard to tell if its been wound back though.

on the timing side of things. Im unsure of this, But checking the timing with a light is mostly the best way to check, you get a more accurate reading than with the ecu, or at least thats my opinion. Some of the more techno savvy guys might be a better help than me.

[KiwiRS4T]

The most likely reason the timing belt has been replaced is that the mileage has been wound back (although its possible that it was done when it was brought into the country). Timing should be 15deg regardless of mods. There may be a need to change the timing curve but you would need an aftermarket ecu or chip to be able to do that. I have had a lot of trouble setting the timing myself. Some people say to use the loop at the back of the engine. I think you need to unplug the TPS first. Have a look also at the DIY at the top of this section - if you go to the stickies, DIY section you will find one for changing the timing belt (and cam gear).

[Daleo]

Wth regard to the lack of gasket, I put 2 waterpumps on my RB over the 300,000km I owned it.

It didn't have a gasket when I removed the first one, and I never used one either.

Just used a non setting sealant. Never had any leaks or other issues.

[wolverine]

I changed the timing belt as soon as the car arrived from Japan despite the car showing less than 100,000km (and with log books that seem consistent) just to be sure.

Timing needs to be set with a timing light.

[HER_M35]

As with pretty well all Japanese imports it is fairly safe to assume the speedo has been doctored/cluster changed before making it to the auction house, whether we like to admit that to ourselves or not....

If your Stag didn't come with log books you can prove are for your vehicle or a certification of KM's (from the likes of www.jevic.co.jp, etc) then assume a windback.

Be happy with the car you purchased, i doubt you purchased the car simply because it had "low KM's", you see some piles of crap with low km's and some absolute gems with high km's, it's more about how the car drives and feels than what the odo says in most cases.

It's possibly a little naive to think that vehicles that are 10-15+ years old actually only have 20-30k km's on them.

They're a strong car, keep lovin' her and she will keep looking after you.

Slightly off topic, rant over now....Sorry!

Awaiting flaming....

[milkchicken]

In Japan it is possible to have a car and only do very low kms, My brother-in-law lives in japan and he does very little km's, and his car he bought 2nd hand also had low kms. I have a 1991 EG Civic and it only has 50,000kms on it. All of that genuine. Its sometimes easy to see if it has done more km's that on the clock. Other times it is very hard. Its just better to be wary of the fact that the car might have the km's wound back, but not all of them have had the clock wound back.

[wolverine]

^^ I agree plenty of good low km cars in Japan.

[bayslideblue]

Hmm, well I still love the car. But it is a little concerning not knowing if it's done 100k km or 200k! Yeah no log book from Japan, I am the second owner in Aus and it had ~40K on it when it was sold to the first owner by the importer in 2007. It's a 2000 model so it's plausable that it's geniune km's, but I have my doubts. At least now though I have replaced some of the important bits, so fingers crossed it will get me another 100k without too much trouble.

Just gotta set the idle and timing now, need to get a timing light.

Thanks for the replies :-)

[bayslideblue]

Bump.

Ok I just cleaned the AAC valve, and reset the idle with the TPS disconnected and using consult with ECUtalk to get exact RPM.

After setting the idle RPM I then rigged up the timing light and checked the ignition timing which was reading 12deg @ 650. So I advanced it slightly by adjusting the CAS until it read exactly 15deg @650 with the TPS disconnected, according to the marks on the pully wheel.

Once I reconnected the TPS it read the same thing, 15 @ 650. And It also read the same on ECUtalk timing read out, so all seems good.

Took it for a test and it ran well, except for the fact that this one thing that was happening before the 100k km service, is still hapenning;

Once it's warm, when I first click it in to gear and the engine is first under load the idle drops right down like it's about to stall. It has a bit of a cough for a second and then pics up and I take off, and it doesn't happen again?

Any ideas?

Injectors? (but doesn't seem to happen any other time through the rev range)

Coil packs failing?

What do you think?

Edited January 2, 2011 by bayslideblue

[KiwiRS4T]

Have you done the plugs? A lot cheaper than coils - just drop a new set of coppers in first and have a good look at the coils for any evidence of arcing and maybe insulate them (see other threads) while you have them out.

[bayslideblue]

Well I changed the the plugs to platinum one's at 70,000. But today I pulled them all out and checked them and re gapped them. I also replaced all vaccum lines with silcon hose, as some of them were old and looking a little cracked.

But stll, it did it to me. In fact it stalled!

Only did it once. But when its warm, once started and first put in to reverse to get out of a park; Idle rpm drops, has a bit of a cough then stalls......

Apart from that it seems to be running quite well. The only other slight symptom is when I'm cruising at around 3000 rpm in 2nd gear and I have my foot just slightly on the throttle it dosen't accellerate entirly smoothly. It seems to jump around a little almost like it was stuttering, but it's hardly noticable.

I seem to be heading towards coil packs, however it seems as though there is no way of telling if a coil pack is failing without expensive equipment like this-

Edited January 3, 2011 by bayslideblue

[RubyRS4]

I changed the timing belt as soon as the car arrived from Japan despite the car showing less than 100,000km (and with log books that seem consistent) just to be sure.

Timing needs to be set with a timing light.

+1

I did the same thing to both my stageas shortly after I purchased them.

And, yes, timing should always be 15 degrees regardless of mods.

[RubyRS4]

Regarding your current problem, I don't think its your coilpacks. Faulty coilpacks cause misfiring under acceleration at higher rpm ... around 4,000rpm.

I would suggest you clean your idle control valve, and see if that eliminates the problem.

[bayslideblue]

Regarding your current problem, I don't think its your coilpacks. Faulty coilpacks cause misfiring under acceleration at higher rpm ... around 4,000rpm.

I would suggest you clean your idle control valve, and see if that eliminates the problem.

Hmm, ok.

Well I already cleaned the AAC valve, isn't the IAC valve part of that assembley on NEO's?

Cheers-

[Mr GTS4]

Yes is the big part at the back of the intake with all the water lines going into it

[bayslideblue]

The top part shown in this picture

Well I did clean this out using these guides -http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344264-cleaning-the-aac-valve-on-rb25det-neo/page__mode__threaded

However I didn't unscrew the cap on the outer side of the spring to clean further inside. As I wasn't sure how to remove it or if I should, as it didn't say how to in either of the AAC valve cleaning threads. And it doesn't have a screw,nut or key to remove it, it's just got three holes??

Anyway, it hasn't done the same thing for a few days now and the idle rpm seems to be fairly consistent. So maybe it's sorting itself out.

Cheers,

Dave-