Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:headspin: Alright I finally am getting my front mount fitted 2day. Plus highflow cat and front pipe/dump pipe fitted.

So the question is anyone want to give me a rough idea on how much power i should be making at the wheels, with above mods plus pod filter.

I dont really want to spend money getting a dyno run done, saving for that when the wolf or power fc go in ( next month hopefully).

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34850-estimate-the-power/
Share on other sites

230-250rwhp sounds sweet for the little money i have spent.

so next week (that would be march 3rd) on wed might take it down the plex and see what she can run. Guessing a mid to low 13.

My guess is a mid to low 14. It's just a guess but, I've not seen many fmic equiped R33's make it past flat 14's on the stock turbo and ecu.

good luck.

Hopefully tomorrow nite I become 1 of these few with the stock ecu/turbo to break into the 13's.

I've got the TS to do -atleast- a 13.9sec and thats with 1st gear being useless so if I can get rid of axle tramp im hoping for a TS of up around 102mph (which makes a 13.3sec possible).

Ok my target is the 350rwhp mark.

Next mod is engine mangement would i expect to see around the 300rwhp mark with some good tuning.

that's probably a bit over-optomistic.

gus and dan have both recorded good results with pfc - and on the basis of their outputs, a reliable 280ish is probably reachable.

paul and steve managed to scrape a bit more out his factory turbo and wolf setup, to take it past 300, but the turbs didnt last long..

i have 9psi (spike valve), stock cooler, stock turbz, pod, no hi-flow cat, dump/front pipe and a cat back and i did a 14.07 @ 98.6mph with a 2.11 60' i doubt a mid to low 13 is possible because kym is running ~260hp @wheels and i was beating him all that night and his best ever is a 13.98... :D good luck with the run tho... :D

ps. with no afr control...i would say keep the boost about 11psi and get about 240hp so you dont run too rich... :)

adding to that Fane, I was running 9psi, with NO AFC, and a 2.2' 60' time....I had around 230rwhp around that time :D

*cough* oh, it was 13.96 too - let's not forget the 0.02! :D

now that teh AFC is in, I gots more power and less traction. P.S. Falken's are sh*t tyres for dragging!

car already runs rich with only cat back exhaust and pod filter. Since exhaust was fitted some time back went from 450km per tank to 350km per tank. hope it doesn't get much worse than that.

Although having a lead foot doesn't help the fuel situation.

Hope to see some of you guys at the plex when i take it down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...