Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got a stock V36 and LOVE it.

Upgraded from a modded R34 with full HKS suspension throughout.

The V36 is pretty floaty / too much roll / 'nervous when cornering' in comparison. I think it could be a sportier.

I've read that the best bang for buck suspension mod you can do on a rear wheel drive car is a larger front sway bar. The whiteline product for this car is $250 or so.

Any experiences here? I'm thinking of taking it down to Tru Track in North Melbourne for a quote and to discuss.

Cheers,

David.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348524-stiffening-up-suspension-on-a-v36/
Share on other sites

Had whiteline swaybars fitted front and back on my V35, didint notice a huge difference in body roll with the stock springs/shocks

I did find that the VDC would kick in earlier than it used to when going around corners with a bit of pace

get the equilvalent year model 350z suspension (not sure if that works on the later model v36) thats what i did with my 350gt.

03 350z track shocks and aftermarket springs.... its a pretty good compromise of ride quality and sportyness.

Had whiteline swaybars fitted front and back on my V35, didint notice a huge difference in body roll with the stock springs/shocks

OK thanks. Can I ask what you paid for these? Not much a difference huh? That's what I was afraid of.

What setting do you have them on? From what I understand the fronts have 2 settings, the rear 3, or maybe the other way round.

get the equilvalent year model 350z suspension (not sure if that works on the later model v36) thats what i did with my 350gt.

03 350z track shocks and aftermarket springs.... its a pretty good compromise of ride quality and sportyness.

Thanks. Yeah maybe a 370Z stuff will suit.

Any particular brand of springs?

Any particular model of shocks (i.e. are these 350z track shocks Nissan / Nizmo branded)?

Edited by Haxorz

Also 180 wanabe did you end up doing anything else to your cars suspension? What is that LSD like?

From the sounds of it I'll have to do the lot (bars, braces, springs, shocks) before I notice a big difference. Obviously $$$$

Edited by Haxorz

I bought Hotchkis swaybars from the US because there was literally nothing available locally unless I custom ordered. they make them specifically for the G37. transformed the car completely

If whiteline make model specific sets to fit I'm sure they'll do the same job

not much else needed to do after that IMO, I bought lowered springs just for the look as the front wheel gap is a bit too much :)

Hey this is interesting... http://www.streetfire.net/video/infiniti-g37-sway-bars-stock-vs-hotchkis_204490.htm

Also:

Hotchkis (hollow but larger)

• Lightweight, Durable 1 3/8" (35mm) Tubular Front Bar.

• Lightweight, Durable 1.125 (28mm) Tubular Rear Bar 3 Way Adjustable

• Premium mounting hardware including, greasable polyurethane bushings and heavy duty brackets.

• Finished in durable anthracite powder coat.

Whiteline (solid but smaller)

Front Swaybar 27mm-h/duty Blade adjustable. BNF41Z Replacement type. 2 point adjustable.

Rear Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable. BNR37Z Replacement type. 3 point adjustable.

Low mileage oem are best as they are easy to find and CHEAP. I dunno if gt8 sway bars are different to the others... could be because the damn things ride so high factory. But mine sits great on the road especially so with the z suspension. And the stock sway bars are pretty damn big from what iv seen.... imo sway bars arent good value for money.

Once you start looking at nismo or branded stuff its 7x the price.

Also tokiko hp on ebay are pretty good. Do some research and find what 350z year model is going to work and the ebay tokiko hp's are pretty good value for money.

Edited by austingtir

Also 180 wanabe did you end up doing anything else to your cars suspension? What is that LSD like?

From the sounds of it I'll have to do the lot (bars, braces, springs, shocks) before I notice a big difference. Obviously $$$$

They did make the car a bit stiffer... but it was nothing compared to the change in stiffness I noticed when going whiteline swaybars in my S13

Have them set on soft front and med on the read, any stiffer on the front and I think understeer would become a pain in the ass

The diff has made the car a lot more fun to drive, going around corners in the wet has become a pleasure rather than a pain!

also no more lighting up one wheel when taking off at the lights

Havent been to a dry track day yet with the new diff but when taking it somewhat easy in the wet I was lapping what I what I used to lap in the dry when giving it everything I had, Im hopeing for a 1 to 2 second improvement in times around the QR sprint track in 2011

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...