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666dan: for sure you;d feel the different i was blown away when i got my 33 gtst, changed from a vl non turbo auto to gtst 5 speed, my god the power increase was awesome :(

be good to see a dyno graph, you should be making the same power as the stock gtt given the work you put in and forged pistons etc, maybe a bit more than the stock gtt. what did u actually put on? was it engine swap or parts from a neo 6t ? stock 34 gtt turbo?

paul: The overall bits that I stuck on my N/A engine were-

R33 turbo & piping

R34 intercooler

GReddy e-manage

R34 injectors

550hp fuel-pump

My pistons are still the stock ones...running 10:1 compression @ 6.5Psi

I've been looking at Trust metal head-gasket to drop the compression & some decent head bolts....maybe a little bit down the track. But then I'll be able to run some higher boost.

As it stands now it's got a very effective yet conservative tune...but it was definately worth the money.

I may try to get a dyno run on Monday....unless anyone knows somewhere that opens on a Saturday???

The bottle refils for me are free as i said everyone has different circumstances, and if you were to get it filled at a shop i think its around 35bucks, and a bottle lasts about 20 runs down the strip with a 75hp shot so theres no problem with it running out in a hurry on the street.

Just a rough calculation:

Turbo + manifold + pipes + intercooler + injectors = $1000

E-manage + software + harnesses = $750

Install + major problems :D = $1300

Fuel Pump + Platinum Plugs (7 heat range) = $600

As I was putting R33 gear into an R34 there was some difficulty with fitting the front pipe from the turbo….not much but that added to labour costs. Also it required a few fiddly bits to be located for PCV pipes etc etc. If you basically get all of the parts from an R33 RB25DET the install cost will be dramatically reduced. Basically you can do most of the work yourself…only the water and oil lines & getting it engineered would need to be done by a mechanic.

It’s a bit like a Lego-set as everything seems to bolt into place :D

You can use any aftermarket computer you like…unless you have an auto then e-manage is probably your best choice.

Also keep in mind, my brakes are fairly decent as is, the 34 N/A has a 5 stud hub already also as I have the tiptronic model, I share the same gearbox as the GTt.

if you really really wanted to do it and didnt wanna change car then swap for rb25det would be the best get i think, but there are still other things like clutch, brakes, gearbox etc which may or may not need upgrading, not sure on those ones. your best bet may be to sell your car and just get a gtst

I came to the decision if it wasn't an R34 I would have sold it and bought a turbo one...even getting the RB25DET Neo was a scary price. Just a few things you have to weigh up...haha saying that I feel like a change of car now :P

I don't know what the case is for the R33. But the R32 GTS25 has the same box as the R32 GTSt. As for how much power they can take? There's a guy in NZ running 10 sec 1/4 (with slicks) and has about 330 kw (at the engine) and he's only just starting to break the R32 GTSt gear box now.

It all depends on how you treat it, some say it won't take more than 200 Rwkw, but this guy has proven it takes 250 Rwkw before it starts breaking.

RB20t gearbox's are pretty tough.

The only appear to crap them selves when running over 200rwkw with a set of slicks/nitto's.

The only thing against them is their age. If the box is new it will hold up for a long time.

My box has always been pretty noisy, it has held up for 2 years (60,000kms) of hard driving. My VS 5ltr 5 speed gearbox crapped its self within 6 months. Come to think of it the whole car crapped its self within 9 months (Diff, gearbox, rear IRS chassis cracked dropping arse end on the ground)

A good RB20t gearbox should hold 250rwkw, Clint32 had a RB20t gearbox behind his RB20t 243rwkw. It held up until its first run down the 1/4 with a set of sticky tyres.

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