Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing a Driveshaft..

mindflux

By mindflux,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

NA_R33 Grand Master

NA_R33

Posted
Posted

not a big job at all, 4 bolts hold it to the dif, theres a support inbetween the gearbox and diff that needs to be removed another 2? bolts from memory and it just pulls out of the gear box and reverse it to put it back in. Use axle stands not just a jack though incase the car decides to agree with gravity.

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

NA_R33, that's the tailshaft, he means driveshaft from diff to hub.

Most importantly you'll need a 36mm socket and a very strong rachet with breaker bar. You can't get a 36mm separately from most hardware or automotive shops, you'll need to go to a proper tool shop or give your mechanic mate a beer in exchange for the loan of one :D

There's 5 bolts that hold your driveshaft to your diff, coat them in WD40 before you get started ;) You can see the end of the driveshaft come through the centre of your hub. it has a little metal cover over the nut that you need to get off, probably with pliers. Coat big the nut in WD40, then coat it again. The 36mm fits over the driveshaft nut. This is where that maccas you had for lunch comes in handy. Put your breaker bar into the socket. You think your breaker bar is pretty big? It's not. Find something even longer to put over the end of it (i used an exhaust :)) Now stand on the of the super breaker bar and you should be able to crack the nut with just your weight and maybe some bouncing. Remove the nut.

Undo the 5 nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. The driveshaft should now fall away from the diff but is still held by the hub on the other end. The driftshaft will need some coaxing to come out of the hub. Screw the big nut a little way back over the end of the driveshaft to give you a surface to hit against. You now need to bash the crap out of the end of the driveshaft until it goes out the back of the hub. A rubber mallet is best so that you don't damage the nut or the thread but you'll probably need even more force than that. Bash away. It will seem like the driveshaft is still held in by something but it's not, it's just a bitch. With enough bashing the driveshaft will slowly make its way out the hub and presto!, you now have a driveshaft. It may be easier in your car but at least i've prepared you for the worst.

PS. If you really want to make life hell for yourself try removing a driveshaft from a separate rear craddle with no diff or brakes. There's nothing to stop the hub from turning when you turn the 36mm nut, and even when you jam up the hub with a pole against the ground the 100 and something kg craddle would rather rotate then the nut. fun, fun, fun.... :headspin:

PSS. You sure you don't want to come remove my spare driveshaft yourself? :)

wow, i wrote quite a novel....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • TurboTapin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...