Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing a Driveshaft..

mindflux

By mindflux,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

NA_R33 Grand Master

NA_R33

Posted
Posted

not a big job at all, 4 bolts hold it to the dif, theres a support inbetween the gearbox and diff that needs to be removed another 2? bolts from memory and it just pulls out of the gear box and reverse it to put it back in. Use axle stands not just a jack though incase the car decides to agree with gravity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

NA_R33, that's the tailshaft, he means driveshaft from diff to hub.

Most importantly you'll need a 36mm socket and a very strong rachet with breaker bar. You can't get a 36mm separately from most hardware or automotive shops, you'll need to go to a proper tool shop or give your mechanic mate a beer in exchange for the loan of one :D

There's 5 bolts that hold your driveshaft to your diff, coat them in WD40 before you get started ;) You can see the end of the driveshaft come through the centre of your hub. it has a little metal cover over the nut that you need to get off, probably with pliers. Coat big the nut in WD40, then coat it again. The 36mm fits over the driveshaft nut. This is where that maccas you had for lunch comes in handy. Put your breaker bar into the socket. You think your breaker bar is pretty big? It's not. Find something even longer to put over the end of it (i used an exhaust :)) Now stand on the of the super breaker bar and you should be able to crack the nut with just your weight and maybe some bouncing. Remove the nut.

Undo the 5 nuts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. The driveshaft should now fall away from the diff but is still held by the hub on the other end. The driftshaft will need some coaxing to come out of the hub. Screw the big nut a little way back over the end of the driveshaft to give you a surface to hit against. You now need to bash the crap out of the end of the driveshaft until it goes out the back of the hub. A rubber mallet is best so that you don't damage the nut or the thread but you'll probably need even more force than that. Bash away. It will seem like the driveshaft is still held in by something but it's not, it's just a bitch. With enough bashing the driveshaft will slowly make its way out the hub and presto!, you now have a driveshaft. It may be easier in your car but at least i've prepared you for the worst.

PS. If you really want to make life hell for yourself try removing a driveshaft from a separate rear craddle with no diff or brakes. There's nothing to stop the hub from turning when you turn the 36mm nut, and even when you jam up the hub with a pole against the ground the 100 and something kg craddle would rather rotate then the nut. fun, fun, fun.... :headspin:

PSS. You sure you don't want to come remove my spare driveshaft yourself? :)

wow, i wrote quite a novel....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Duncan · Posted

      well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot.  Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car
    • Duncan
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By Duncan · Posted

      I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • portaz
      Walbro 460 in r32 gtr

      By portaz · Posted

      I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
×
×
  • Create New...