Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys hope someone can really help here, I've got a 1994 r32 gtr and ever since i got it it had an issue with the torque gauge (at least i thought it was the gauage back then) where it would show torque going to the front wheels prematurely. Back the the car was pretty much standard with 7 pounds boost and the issue didnt really make the car drive different.

Now the car has 20 psi and ive nearly lost control twice because of this issue. Basically the front wheels apply too early and to the best of my knowledge and according to the torque guage the front wheels seem to be engaging according to boost. even at a pound or two boost i notice the guage come on and under full boost the front wheels spin while the rears still have traction. Ive changed tyres and it did not fix the issue and yes all 4 where changed with the same brand and spec/size and it didnt help at all. I can hear the pump prime when i turn the car on and i thought that maybe the system wasnt bled properly the first time when i got it so when i changed the clutch me and a mate bled the system and it works the same as before.

Please help as it affecting the driving and my safety and i woould love to have the car drive the way it should

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348906-big-awd-problem-need-help/
Share on other sites

well...that is extremely strange. wheelspin at the front but not rear is pretty much unheard of, unlike many 4wd systems, attessa cannot put more than 50% to the front.

so unless you have some crazy wheel alignment (you already said you now have the same tyres all round), I think it is most likely to be a diff problem. It is possible you have a different ratio diff front to rear, and that might cause the issue you are talking about.

best to get a good workshop to check it out. if you want to check diff ratios yourself, get the car off the ground, and have 1 person turn the rear wheels while 1 person watches the tailshaft turn. You should get 4.1 turns of the tailshaft for 1 turn of the wheels if it is a standard diff. The most likely other options are 4.4:1 (gts4), 4.3:1 (stagea) of 3.8:1 (r34 gtr, I think)? Then try the same test on the front wheels. Different ratios front and rear will be a disaster for attessa, it is designed around rear wheel spin and moving to the front, never front wheel spin.

BTW that is all assuming you don't have a 1000hp drag car. If you do....you will have to work it out for yourself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...