Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not Ian Luff if you have any sort of driving experience... He's okay for Stage 1 and 2 when you're just learning how to drive, but if you want track tuition, he's useless.

Aaron McGill or Peter Finlay seem to be the popular choices, but I haven't had a chance to goto their courses as yet :D

Merli: Cheers for the info. I should perhaps have been more descriptive. I am not really all that interested in learning how to race, etc, but more the car control side of things. I am planning a (fairly major) step up from a lowly car to a GT-R and just want to ensure I have the skills to not wrap myself around a tree. :D

LW.

I see you're 21, so you have a few years experience under your belt... So you're kind of in no-man's land :)

Basically that's what Ian Luff teaches you...

Stage 1: Slalom courses, braking tests, swerving tests, etc etc...

Stage 2: Skidpan - Wet weather driving skills

Stage 3: Track tuition - but this is absolutely useless... He didn't teach me a thing... All he did was sit in my car and go "Brake... Brake... GO GO GO GO!!!!! Brake... Brake... GO GO GO!!!", when I already knew all the braking points for my car better than he did (I have driven around Oran Park several times previous) and then he'd pump his fist up and down the straight as we drove past the other instructors... I just basically took him for a joy ride.

When I asked "So how can I improve and lower my times?" He answered:

"Well you're taking the dogleg at the limit.. Can't improve anymore there... Approach to the straight can be a bit faster (I purposely take that at 90% because you brush up riiiiiight next to a concrete wall and I want to leave room for error and power sliding), and the rest of the track you do really well."

So basically yeah, Stage 3 is pretty much useless unless you're a track virgin, and even still going by reports of the other courses (McGill and Finlay), from other experienced track drivers, they seem much much better.

So it depends what you want to learn :D Don't discount the track tuition because you're not interested in racing just yet, because driving your car around the track at full tilt, you learn 50000% times more about the way your car handles than you do on a public "driver education" day...

Come to any of the skidpan events and have a go. With some basic input from those on hand on the day you can't help but learn alot about car control. It's very safe and very hard to damage the car let alone even do much wear and tear.

The Honda club is running an event on 21st march at Eastern creek (see NSW Events :D )

I did Stage 1 when I first got my licence, and I thought it was pretty good yeah... Just let you get more familiar with your car which is always a good thing!

I didn't do Stage 2, but it's an extension of Stage 1, only in the wet so it would be good too...

It all depends what you're after I guess... I was after track tuition and a CAMS C3 licence through his Stage 3 and I didn't get what I was expecting... For someone who has never driven on a racetrack before, they'd probably think it was awesome :D

I did Stage 1 when I first got my licence, and I thought it was pretty good yeah... Just let you get more familiar with your car which is always a good thing!

I didn't do Stage 2, but it's an extension of Stage 1, only in the wet so it would be good too...

It all depends what you're after I guess... I was after track tuition and a CAMS C3 licence through his Stage 3 and I didn't get what I was expecting... For someone who has never driven on a racetrack before, they'd probably think it was awesome :D

Stage 1 sounds perfect. What sort of cost was it (PM me if you don't want to post).

Cheers,

LW.

It all depends what you're after I guess... I was after track tuition and a CAMS C3 licence through his Stage 3 and I didn't get what I was expecting... For someone who has never driven on a racetrack before, they'd probably think it was awesome :rofl:

I did the C3 licence training and I had never even been to a racetrack before. I was absolutely shit at it, but damn I had a good time. I was thinking I'd get my C3 license afterwards too, but at the end of the course he explained the costs. So basically I ended up having a good day and was allowed to then go for my C3 license (even though I didn't want it by the end).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...