Jump to content
SAU Community

Tein Ss Coilovers

thatlbeme
 Share

Recommended Posts

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
Posted

The usual story it seems, R34 GTR straight from Japan with Tein coilovers that are too stiff and harsh for our dodgy roads, from what I have been reading the easiest solution is a new set of coilovers with softer springs. The Tein super street Aus spec ones seem to be whats needed but I can't find who sells the Aus spec ones, so could someone point me in the right direction please.

Also would there be any point in trying to sell the stiff Teins for parts etc as they seem to work very well on the good sections of roads except for the left rear one having a squeak whenever the car hits a bump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349315-tein-ss-coilovers/
Share on other sites
thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Found a set of Tein super street coilovers, bought locally but was very tempted to get them from the UK off Ebay. $1032.23 plus postage if you use your old tops, or buy a set of tops for $100 locally.

If the price was just under $1000 I would have got them but didn't want the potential problems of GST Tax etc for being just over the limit.

Edited by thatlbeme
paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Fulcrum suspension are the only approved distributor for Tein in Australia. They did all the development of the aus spec versions of the super streets.

What type of Tein's are on there at the moment? If they are circuit master RA/RS/RE then you can get them set up for local street conditions.

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fulcrum suspension are the only approved distributor for Tein in Australia. They did all the development of the aus spec versions of the super streets.

What type of Tein's are on there at the moment? If they are circuit master RA/RS/RE then you can get them set up for local street conditions.

The only sticker I can see is on one of the rears and I couldn't find any info about them. It says "SPORT SPEC, DRIVING MASTER, type HA"

They must have very good roads in Japan as they are very firm springs.

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Do you know if the HA's are monotube or twin tube design? Twin tube will taper at the bottom of the shock body where monotube wont - mono is what you want. The SS are an older twin tube design. Might be worth giving Fulcrum in QLD a quick shout and see if it is worth having your HA's revalved with some softer springs.

How much are you willing to spend?

thatlbeme Enthusiast

thatlbeme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If I am looking at it right they appear to be monotube, that would be great news if the HA coilovers were able to be revalved. Probably be able to put them on Ebay and sell them "as is" with needing to be revalved.

Its a shame I already ordered the super street ones as rebuilding these would have probably saved me money.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...