Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just sticking this up to see if anyone is interested.

1989 R31 Ti

230k on the clock but drives like new

Respray in Nissan 350z grey (perfect condition, two blemishes that I will show you)

Immaculate interior, in perfect condition

Choice of front bars (dvs motorsport one or stock)

Works VX 18x8 and 9 235 rubber (lots of dish)

All interior lights changed to LED

Some fancy sound system

Aftermarket steering wheel, pedals, gearbox boot etc

Drive line:

Standard Rb26dett, all stock intercooler pipes and plumb back BOV

Rb25det gearbox (smooth as butter), 6 puck clutch, one piece HD tailshaft, speedo is spot on

Sillo LSD

Hks race front pipe, 3 inch mandrel exhaust with cat etc (very quiet, I would say quieter than a stock gtr)

Currently has a Pinny manual rack (but comes with spare power steering rack, might put this back in)

LED knock light on dash

intank 044 fuel pump (direct power from battery)

Brakes:

R32 Gtr front brakes and rotors

Rear stock R31 with vented rotors

Suspension:

S13 front conversion (stock R31 lower arms), HSD remote canister camber adjustable shocks

Lowered and upgraded struts at the rear

Front strut brace

Overall car is in immaculate condition, 10 months rego, all modification are engineered, car is running 11psi and makes 200rwkw

front2.jpg

front3.jpg

front.jpg

bum.jpg

$12,000 firm... If you want a clean, fast engineered Gtr powered 31 in immaculate condition this is it.

This car looks fantastic and won't draw the attention of the cops

Anyone who offers to swap for something can eat a dick... unless it's an R34 Gtr

Car is located in Blue Mountains Sydney

For any questions give me a bell

Pete

0448 468 884

additional picks bellow

IMG_8426.jpg

IMG_8425.jpg

IMG_8424.jpg

IMG_8423.jpg

IMG_8422.jpg

IMG_8421.jpg

IMG_8420.jpg

IMG_8418.jpg

IMG_8417.jpg

IMG_8416.jpg

IMG_8415.jpg

IMG_8414.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Im guessing you could go eat that dick now .

lol yeah i saw that before i posted & decided against that part of it....might as well ask hey, he can always say no....

  • 1 month later...

you're a machine fatz. no wonder you are selling, this 31 is far too clean for you. love the paint mate. pretty cheap for a 26 powered car with nice paint and nice rims. should haul a55!

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...