Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, My name is Michael.

I am new on here and thought i would introduce myself......

I also have a few questions

Im currently on my red Ps and drive a 300zx...... i know i know you dont need to tell me how much you dis like them.

long story short im selling it as iv just lost interest in it and it being auto.

for the past few weeks iv been trying to work out what car I should buy next

has to be P plate legal, JDM, 2 door, Manuel, preferably 6 cyl, and with in 5-10 grand.

Iv brang it down to the nissan skyline r32 gts, I just have a few questions

are they hard to find with a rb25de? or is it just me not looking in the wright place,

there was one for sale locally but its no longer forsale >_<

I look on carsales.com most of the car forums local paper ect yet thats the only one iv came across,

is there any other places in QLD i should be looking?

And what is the market value of the r32 gts how much do they usually go for?

hopefully if all goes good my 300zx should be sold next week, soo i need to have somthing lined up soon.

Im also open to suggestion on any other import P plate legal cars but has to be 2 door, Manuel ect.

any info is appreciated!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349612-r32-gts/
Share on other sites

Quite rare to fine an R32 with an RB25DE better off going R33 there much more common. They would range from 8-12k depending on the condition etc...

yehh I thought about the r33 for a while, I honestly like the look of the r32 better and its prob more in my price range even if i could get one with a RB20DE....... really didnt wanna spent more then 7 thousand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349612-r32-gts/#findComment-5616087
Share on other sites

The R32 RB25DE are rare hence why they are a bit more expensive : ) on your budget i would recommend trying to get an R32 with an RB20DE or possibly a nice S13 just have a look at the sale section of the site and carsales regularly something should pop up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349612-r32-gts/#findComment-5616198
Share on other sites

The R32 RB25DE are rare hence why they are a bit more expensive : ) on your budget i would recommend trying to get an R32 with an RB20DE or possibly a nice S13 just have a look at the sale section of the site and carsales regularly something should pop up.

Yeh I would settle for a r32 with a RB20DE, but im still having trouble fining one with a RB20DE in QLD...... and yehh iv sceen a few nice s13 for sale around that price but iv just got my heart set on the r32.

Get an r32 non turbo rolling shell and drop an r33 Rb25de into it, get the best of both :thumbsup:

And i thought about that aswell but i just dont have the time nor the space at the moment, maybe if i get one with a RB20DE and later on put the RB25 but than you have to get mod plate change rego, insurance ect?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349612-r32-gts/#findComment-5616609
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

get the one you want in the first place, engine transplants can get expensive especially if you cant do it yourself, i picked up my 32 GTS-t (RB20DET) type M for $3000 its a bit ratty but not cop bait, i have a transplant waiting for mine and its a 32 RB25 DE + T which i can fit myself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349612-r32-gts/#findComment-5798996
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...