Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

apart from just embarrasing - i see lots of old rust buckets blowing putrid black smoke...

edit - also, if modifying cars has taught me anything, the good old saying "a stitch in time saves 9"...Why not fork out the couple of hundred $$$ - might save you a couple of thousand $$$ 6 months down the track..

Edited by defari

Speaking to a chick i know the other day, me:" your car will need a service in another 5k". her "Really? i bought a new car so i wouldnt have to do that". me 'facepalm'.

The amount of shit cars getting around in Wa is ridiculous, yet cops still target imports, most of which are well looked after, rather then the shitbox eb that

just drove past with rust everywhere bald tyres and the exhaust falling off.

Have seen a few commodors (not a dog, just what I've seen), slammed so hard at the back that they were making sparks on the ground everytime there was the slightest bump.

The problem with this is that on the VN in question from what I can tell the FUEL TANK is the lowest point of the car when it's angled back like that...

Sparks on road from fuel tank,,,, HUR DUR!!!

Could have been the standard suspension but just lost a spring.

Commos, when lifted from the body, like to drop the rear springs.

Whenever I get tyres changed, the VS loses at least 1-spring, the VP was even worse as it was a S pack and must have had the wrong shocks.

Now that I'm aware, I've seen a few drive out from the tyre shop sitting all down on one side. Sure enough, spring has dropped off the seat.

Reputable tyre shops check as they lower the car. Others just let her drop.

Every morning on the way to work I see atleast one (always different) white vans blowing blacksmoke like it's going out of fashion the one i saw today the smokewas so thick it was 200m or so do the road and the smoke still hadn't dispersed from the spot which it pulled away from.

Oh yeah excell drivers seem to have zero interest in maintaining their cars either every second one is blowing smoke or dropping heaps of coolant

i lol everytime i see those cars that drive somewhat sideways in a straight line.. surely they cant be safe either.

^ ^ ^ yeah, crabbing from steering and chassis rail damage

Another one is ignoring to check tyre pressures > underinflated tyres > like throwing $ down the drain.

Oh yeah excell drivers seem to have zero interest in maintaining their cars either every second one is blowing smoke or dropping heaps of coolant

Well it is a Hyundai Excel, what did you expect? :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...