Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im planning on changing head gasket this w/end as it is blown. Has anyone done this recently? Just trying to get a bit of info before I start it.

So far I have headgasket, timing belt and water pump.

Any other parts I have missed out on.

Any tips/tricks that anyone knows of, anything I should look out for?

Thanks.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35085-changing-head-gasket-rb25det/
Share on other sites

You don't really need timing belt and water pump, unless they are due for replacement. They don't have to come off to get the head off.

You'll probably need manifold gaskets.

While the head is off, check the condition of the welsh plugs, and replace if necessary (Repco have them).

Lots of bandaids for skinned knuckles !!

do a search and u will find an old post i put up . make sure u get the timing right . the belt has matks on it line them up with the marks on the cam puliesand the crank and line all the pulies with their marks as well .

pull the head off and if you have any probs with timing pm me and i'll help you.

headbolts tension .tighten to 29 nm then to 98 nmthen loosen them , tighten to 25-34 nm then 93 - 103 nm .

make sure you line up all the timing marks with the marks on the belt ( use a new one ).make sure you insall the tensioner pulley washers and spring as they come off . when u insall the timing belt to adjust the tension rotate crank clockwise 2 turns with tensioner instalation bolt loose then use alen key and tighten the instalaton bolt 43-58 nm .dont overtighten case they are known to break .

you will need 27 mm socket and a gear puller to pull the crank pulley off . it will be very tight 150 nm undo it say 10 mm then put the gear puller and it will come then u undo the bolt .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...