Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

Dunno if this has been talked about before but i did a search but couldnt find the answer i'm looking for.

So, last year the drag race association here on the island joined IHRA and we got a lot of new rules and this year one of the new rules is that cars that are competing cant run with coolant that has glycol in it.

Is there any alternatives to coolant or any other types of coolant that doesnt have glycol in it? Because i dont really want to rely on just water to keep the engine temperature down.

Thanks in advance for the replies.

Take care

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351160-alternative-to-engine-coolant/
Share on other sites

HI mate, water cools better than glycol anyway, it absorbs more heat for it's volume.

We run straight distilled water in the race car with a corrosion inhibitor. Castrol make the inhibitor I use but I am sure there are other brands available.

If you find you still need more cooling capacity, we also use redline water wetter which made the car run about 5-10o cooler.

  • Like 1

I didnt know that water cools better than glycol, thats good to know. I had a look at the castrol corrosion inhibitor and the redline water wetter, both looks good. Gonna talk to my friends and see if they want to join in on a group buy so we can order some online.

Thanks for the reply Duncan.

BTW I should add that glycol does have a role....it adds the anti-freeze ability. When we are going to goulburn in winter we change back to coolant, the extra cooling isn't really important that time of year anyway

.

I just assumed that wasn't an issue for you in the caribeean but it might be for others reading :D

  • 2 weeks later...

HI mate, water cools better than glycol anyway, it absorbs more heat for it's volume.

We run straight distilled water in the race car with a corrosion inhibitor. Castrol make the inhibitor I use but I am sure there are other brands available.

If you find you still need more cooling capacity, we also use redline water wetter which made the car run about 5-10o cooler.

do u use the water wetter and corrosion inhibitor together?

like im asking if they are compatible together?

full bottle of each in each full colling system fill up?

i know that the redline water wetter has an inhibitor in it but prob not very much and and if your using de mineralised water i suppose it cant hurt to add the 200ml castrol inhibitor also?

I've never used them both together, when running the redline water wetter it has stuff in it already like you said. once again, i've never had a problem.

but be careful of sub 0 evenings...

BTW I should add that glycol does have a role....it adds the anti-freeze ability. When we are going to goulburn in winter we change back to coolant, the extra cooling isn't really important that time of year anyway

.

I just assumed that wasn't an issue for you in the caribeean but it might be for others reading :D

Yea, thats not gonna a be a issue here in the caribbean. A good thing too otherwise a lot of people would protest against this new rule.

yeah the whole point of so called 'coolant' is that it lowers the freezing point so your liquid doesn't freeze up at 0 degrees C. like dunc said it doeasn't really help much with the cooling capacity it does raise the boiling point a bit but under 0.9-1.3 bar pressure (depending on your cap seat pressure) water's boiling point is increased a fair bit anyway. that's what stops is boiling in your engine, the pressure. under 1 bar atmospheric pressure plus the added 1 bar system pressure pure water will boil only at about 120C.

lol well if my car even got close to those temps id be sorting out a better cooling system.

i have found both my r33s have pretty good factory cooling systems (not talking about oil)

no matter how hot the ambiant temp is or how long im being hard on them, the water temp is pretty stable.

genuine thermostat, a regular cooling system flush and retaining clutch fan probably have a bit to do with that though.

more horsepower and thermo fans and water instead of coolant will be the test in the near future when car is back on the track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...