Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok my new car, after getting rid of my R31 skyline.

R32 GTST sedan

first dyno run was 136RWKW @ 14psi (stock turbo, auto, 3" exhaust)

2nd dyno run was 138RWKW @ 7psi (r33 turbo, 3" dump added)

fastest dyno run 15.3 @ 90mph (stock turbo, auto)

When i picked up the car in mid 2011, it was pretty stock apart from the following.

front strut brace

RS*R lowered springs

pod filter

3" cat back RS*R exhasut

3" high flow cat.

type m body kit

since then i have added the following,

turbo tech manual boost controller

3" split dump pipe and front pipe (one unit) from CES racing.

drift boost gauge

post-32868-0-21802300-1295952145_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-35893800-1295952208_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-80898900-1295952277_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-82620200-1295952346_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-56267400-1295952393_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-50067800-1295952437_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351703-r-tunes-skyline-20/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok an update.

the car now sits as a shell waiting to get painted gunmetal grey.

I have brought the following.

2nd set of GTST rims

a set of R33 GTST and GTR rims

blits vented bonet (for GTST)

vertex body kit

rear strut brace

nismo leather gear knob

nismo radiator cap

nismo thermo stat

better condition rubbers (all doors), so the ones on the doors, the cahssie, and the one that runs along the top.

better condition c piller trim

excedy clutch

adj caster arms

cusco zero 2 coil overs

rear cradel pinaples.

better condition manual gear lever surround

manual gear lever cover

better condition blanking plates and demister vent. (the ones at the very front of the dash)

blits SE FMIC

R32 GTR spioler

clear indicators

new hand brake cover

project mu handbrake shoes.

hicas lock bar

new driver window switch as i broke two of the micro switches.

post-32868-0-92857000-1296663791_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-01859100-1296663850_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-41646800-1296664063_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-55044600-1296664357_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok brought more parts.

project mu brake shoes (for the hand brake)

white line GTR adj sway bar (also got the front in the deal but may have to get rid of it)

just jap hardend tie rod ends.

4 X r32 gtst rims

4 x R33 gtst rims

Im waiting on pics from my wife so i can put them up

And thanks to the cyclone that hit darwin i will defently be needing a new interior as it got wet and now will get modly as all the windows are out in waiting for paint.

If any one has some R32 GTR or bucket seats please let me know.

Hey guys,

Got the rubbers of the for sale forum from another member who is wrecking his car, had a look at the pics and the rubbers were in better condition then mine. ill pm you the price.

With the side skirt yea thier up for sale, as is the whole body kit. Send me a pm.

Also have some pics not the best but my missus took them.

post-32868-0-86270500-1298209694_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-21636800-1298209787_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-86113700-1298209839_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-53454200-1298209887_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Ah k time for a update,

Have brought the follow,

Rear camber arms

alloy 52mm 2 core radiator

the blits FMIC as mentiond above (had to wait for it to arive at just jap)

pair of recaro look alike seats and rails (from just jap) in black cloth

HEL ADR aproved brake lines

New center vents

clear indiactors

catch can

SRI solid bush for stering collom (in one in side eng bay) and got it for $29 inc postage from just jap.

push start button kit

N1 water pump.

Will be able to start building it very soon, so some good pics to come.

  • 2 months later...

Ok update time,

Car has now being painted and body kit fitted, a big thanks to the guys at arafura crash who did the work. and so you know the paint is the factory paint colour, light mertalic grey.

So far pulled the rest of the interor out so i can clean it and get it retrimed.

b piller brace fitted. one question for people that do have one have you use one or two bolts to secure it?

dummy place the driver seat and harnes.

fitted all coil overs

rear strut brace

rear sway bar

rear camber arms

all brake lines

rear hand brake shoes

front sway bar

fitted the blits FMIC

fitted the nismo radiator cap

clear indicators fitted

new center vent and demister vents fitted.

fitted the 33 rims, so i could get it on the truck. they make the front bar sit a 150mm and the stock 16" the front bar was at 100mm

post-32868-0-32065900-1308908932_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-37357600-1308908995_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-45640800-1308909064_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-54076500-1308909125_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-50350600-1308909200_thumb.jpg

Needs a GTR grill retrofit and align the headlights with the indicators, otherwise it looks kinda unproportioned imo.

fitted the 33 rims, so i could get it on the truck. they make the front bar sit a 150mm and the stock 16" the front bar was at 100mm

The 33 rims are a full 10cm larger then the 32s? that doesn't sound right...

Yep still have to fit the headlights proberly. im running 235/45/17 tyers on the GTRs were the stockies were 205/55/16. diffrent brand tyers are also diffrent sizes. And also not changing the bonnet as it ADR aproved.

Edited by R TUNE
im running 235/45/17 tyers on the GTRs were the stockies were 205/55/16. diffrent brand tyers are also diffrent sizes.

Lol if different brand tyres were different sizes we'd have a huge problem. That's why we have standardised size ratings. 235/45R17 is only 12mm larger then 205/55R16. It would only raise the car 6mm. Hardly 50mm now isn't it!

Edited by TMM
  • 5 months later...

Ok time for a update and i know it's been long.

Car is now on the road and regersted.

power is currently at 160RWKW still with the auto tune.

have taken it to a drift day and fark it was awsome but still got to work on the suspention set up.

Do have new pics but having trouble up loading.

Well got the car back from the tuners and managed 160RWKW @ 14psi. not bad considering it;s darwin wet season (temp 28-34 humidity 60%-90%).

ill post the dyno graph when i get a chance.

Im alos removing the ATS 2 way as it sucks for street driving, it fine for track use or weekend use. But for street just shim a stock LSD.

  • 5 months later...

Time for an update, Last update was after RD5 of the burson auto parts drift series up in darwin, at hidden valley raceway.

I cooked the cluctch, enough that i had 3 big cracks in the fly wheel.

The gearbox has said enough with all sycros crunching and bearings been noisy.

So replaced these, new fly wheel, 5 puck cussion button clucth from RPM replacement gear box.

tryed fitten a Z32 afm, as my tunner thought it was the problem with my car not starting, stalling, running like crap. In the end the AFM was dirty and the pod ( a cheap crap one) had cloged (i also found later the intake pipe to the turbo was not on.

My tunner couldn't get the Z32 to work even tho he got it running with the stock AFM and didn't tell me as my aim was to get it running.

I painted the R33 GTR rims black.

Had to replace the rocker cover gaskets as they had been leaking, and also suffed some serious blow by, after competeing in the burson autoparts drift series RD 1 2012.

At that event placed 5

Time for an update, Last update was after RD5 of the burson auto parts drift series up in darwin, at hidden valley raceway.

I cooked the cluctch, enough that i had 3 big cracks in the fly wheel.

The gearbox has said enough with all sycros crunching and bearings been noisy.

So replaced these, new fly wheel, 5 puck cussion button clucth from RPM replacement gear box.

tryed fitten a Z32 afm, as my tunner thought it was the problem with my car not starting, stalling, running like crap. In the end the AFM was dirty and the pod ( a cheap crap one) had cloged (i also found later the intake pipe to the turbo was not on.

My tunner couldn't get the Z32 to work even tho he got it running with the stock AFM and didn't tell me as my aim was to get it running.

I painted the R33 GTR rims black.

Had to replace the rocker cover gaskets as they had been leaking, and also suffed some serious blow by, after competeing in the burson autoparts drift series RD 1 2012.

At that event placed 5

I found that i had understeer in my current set up, and was selecting 5th insted of 3rd on turn 7 due to a worn gear leaver bush.

Also had issues with blow by, and a leaking rocker cover gasket both now fixed. but looks like the turbo seal has gone as im blowing white smoke on back off.

Any way here are some pics

Fitted a fire bottle, painted the rocker cover, painted the GTR rims.

post-32868-0-03649400-1339548405.jpg

post-32868-0-58243000-1339548443.jpg

post-32868-0-86667300-1339548465.jpg

post-32868-0-25713700-1339548511.jpg

post-32868-0-74089100-1339548576.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...