R33 door lock wiring & parklight bulbs in the headliights

[HappyPuppy]

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the locking switches on the drive & passenger door?

Also this might be a dumb question but how do you change the parker bulbs that are in the actual headlights? (not the ones on the corners).

I tried twisting the grey plug under the main circular cap on the back of the headlight but it wouldn't move and I really don't want to get the pliers onto it unless I know that I'm twisting the right thing the right way!

Or is it also in the main assembly for the headlight where the main bulb lives?

[(B1) MR_fanny]

there are no parker lights in the actual main drivers lamp assembly for a 33 ...only on the side of it which u have already stated. to get the bulb out of the lamp(not the parkers) u unscrew the big round plastic cap and there should be a wire clip that you push in and up to unlock it(from memory)...then u just have to pull the bulb out by the wires. i see no reason to use plyers.

as for the locking switches on the drivers side...if ur wanting to disable the lock for the passengers side so that it wont open once u lock it then just cut the brown wire from the main control unit. u will still be able to lock it. ive already done this to mine. its amazing how something so small could potentialy be so costly. should be one of the first things to do to a skyline/import when purchased.

hope this helps

[HappyPuppy]

Cool thanks! Yep that was the plan. I was thinking of installing a kill switch for the unlock switches on both doors....no sense in them operating when no one is in the car.

Is it also a brown wire on the driver's door?

As for the parking lights, see the other thread. Where I'll try to post some pics tomorrow morning... :-)

[(B1) MR_fanny]

its the brown wire commin from the control box for power windows and stuff on the drivers door that u cut to disable the passengers lock switch from unlocking. if u just cut the wire on the passengers doors then when u unlock the door on the drivers side it wont unlock would be a pain in the ass.

[Zahos]

its the brown wire commin from the control box for power windows and stuff on the drivers door that u cut to disable the passengers lock switch from unlocking.  if u just cut the wire on the passengers doors then when u unlock the door on the drivers side it wont unlock would be a pain in the ass.

Yes and No.....

I cut this wire, then spliced it into the (purple I think) wire, which has power with ignition on... (use a multimeter to find wich wire has power with ignition), and I thought it would disable the lock with power off....

funny thing is now, I cannot unlock the passenger door from that switch (even when i wired it back up the way it was). I can lock from the switch, but not unlock.....

I can still unlock it from the drivers door lock, and with my keyless entry wich is good, but you would need a wiring diagram to make it do what u want it to do....

[HappyPuppy]

Well if there's a wire that supplies power when the ignition is on you could wire up a relay to act as an switch to join the brown wire when the ignition is on and disconnect when the ignition is off.

But for me this isn't what I want to do...I want a switch hidden from sight that when activated will allow the unlock switches to operate on both the driver's and passenger's door, regardless if the ignition is on or not.

[(B1) MR_fanny]

doesnt that already happen when the igintion is off?? i mean u can lock and unlock the doors without the keys in it anyways? sounds like u wanna make a kill switch for the locks when u leave the car rite..but can turn it back on so u can use the switch as normal when u get back in?? but then depending on the way its wired up if u open the drivers door with the key it might not open the passengers side cause its been killed. or the remote key entry wouldnt work....i dunno...not sure wat ur plainin to do.

[HappyPuppy]

Sorry let me be a bit more clear....

Kill switch off = everything works as normal

Kill switch on = only the internal unlock/lock switches on the door don't work, everything else is as normal

So this just requires finding one of the wires off each internal unlock/lock switch and putting a double pole single throw switch in series, to act as the kill switch.