Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, yes i did search. The new Search function doesn't seem to work properly. I type in 'overheating' or 'over heating' and it comes up with barely anything.

My NA R33 seems to be overheating when heading uphill. At one point it got close to the H so i had to pull over. It's fine in town however after a long drive and heading back into town it can be a little bit hot. Turning the heater on helps settle it but not when going uphill.

Have replaced radiator cap, thermostat, and flushed radiator.

Note: Car also takes quite a while to warm up.

My money is on failing water pump, but i really hope not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351830-overheating-uphill-only/
Share on other sites

even if the water pump is failing it should still heat up in a matter of minutes when driving (if you are on of the people who let it sit there and idle until it is warm, then it will take much longer than if you are driving).

i'd say that your radiator is probably quite blocked (which a flush won't do a thing to fix).

you can sort of check. connect a hose as air tight as you can onto one end of the radiator (i suggest fitting your cap and clamping the garden hose with the fitting on it to the radiator hose) then run the water. you'll notice if the water comes out fast enough or if there is heaps of pressure in the radiator hose you connected your garden hose to. thats just a back yard inspection though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...