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First of all if you are not patient or technically minded dont try this, pay someone to do it.

There are risks:

Risk 1: Someone in the US fried his ECU, no idea how ...

Risk 2: If not mounted correctly you will get premature burn out of the actuator

Risk 3: If not mounted correctly you will not be able to open the door (happened to me) you can fix but follow the below and you are right :)

Im gonna write up what i found when doing this... Hope these tips help others and avoid going through what i did. After getting the door off finally i did i 110% this time.

After you have taken you door panel off and taken the bose speaker off you will see a cable, undo the plastic wrap and splice two cables into it. Measure the length needed for the cables and use thick ones as mine were a bit short.

1. Route your wires you spliced into (purple and blue) under the BOSE speaker.

Tip: Put a bit of tape on the blue wire so you know which is which if you used the same coloured wires.

IMG_1636.jpg

2. Take off the inner door handle, you want to drill where the smaller hole is

Tip: have the bottom of the hole line up with the bottom of the existing cable hole. Mine could have been a tiny bit closer to the bigger hole (which was a mistake) dont drill the big one..

IMG_1627.jpg

3. Now drill a hole in the closest plastic tab to the inner door lock.

Tip: The hole should be 2cm high, 1.5cm in.

IMG_1628.jpg

4. Mount the Actuator. The Metal plate you can get from bunnings for $5. It needs to be 30cm long. fold each end at 5cm mark and drill holes for actuator 1/3 of the way up.

Tip: height should be around 2.5cm from the top of the door trim. Also put two screws on angles at the back to stop the brack from twisting when unlocking and locking.

IMG_1629.jpg

5. Tape lock the 3 screw bracket

Tip: Pull the tape as you put it on, too much and it will bunch up OR use locktite

IMG_1624.jpg

6. Mount the door lock cable FIRST then run the actuator rod into the bracket.

Tip: The way you mount it right is all the difference

RIGHT way: Notice the L shape pin is push into the hole

IMG_1626.jpg

WRONG WAY: See the pin is sitting out, DONT install like this

IMG_1625.jpg

This bit is sort of Step 6a...

Once you have the locking cable with bracket attached put that little L pin in the door lock bracket and click the cable in the hole. Now you will have to take the Actuator off again so you can put the rod in the end (i forgot to measure how much i cut off) and then put the rod through the first hole in the white tab and then through the black hole you made in the inner door lock bracket.

Tip: As you put it through the hole you then put the rod through the top 3 screw bracket. DONT tighten yet. Hook up power to the actuator and see how far the rod goes in the unlock position, if clearance is good Now use a flat blade screw driver to tighten that last screw. Now test manually and with your remote heaps of times. Once right silicone that MF. Put some on the screws and some under where that L pin is.

IMG_1635.jpg

Your done!

Just make sure the actuator can EASILY open and close, you dont want ANY struggle.

If done good yours should look like these videos. CLICK THEM TO PLAY

Locking mechanism: See how strong the actuating is, it fully opens and closes with the L pin always in the hole. I am trying to show that the bottom of the pin is visible at the bottom of the bracket.

th_IMG_1632.jpg

Actuator Mount: See There is very little flex when it actuates

th_IMG_1633-1.jpg

Inside door lock: Again see how it fully locks and unlocks, you dont want it to only move half way..

th_IMG_1637.jpg

Edited by R6n350GT
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make sure you use loctite on those. they will move over time and you will be pulling the lot down again. quite common on the r33 , r32 where you add an actuator to them

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