Jump to content
SAU Community

Mechanical inspections?

blx

By blx,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

blx Experienced

blx

Posted
Posted

I am looking to purchase a R33 GTS-t with in the next week and am wondering where is the best place to get all the mechanicals checked out? I have found the one i want but don't want any mechanical troubles out of it.

The car is in Brisbane on the northside. I do not expect the driver to take it too far away as i am not wanting to stuff him around. I just want his car. :rolleyes:

What are your reccommendations?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35237-mechanical-inspections/
Share on other sites
mindflux Mentor

mindflux

Posted
Posted

Well i got my r32 checked out by Gavin Woods Autotek at labrador..

I was happy with the work he did, however he did tell me a problem that was not a problem, and charged me for a data inspection i did not recieve, however i havnt had a chance to speak to him about this..

it will cost you $60 for the inspection and another $60 if you want a data stream OR a compression test.

Take it to gavin, one you have put a deposit down .. (write up a contract stating you want the full depost refunded if it does not pass the mechanical inspection to your liking)

this is a legally binding contact and will last 3 months, therefore he can not let anyone look at it or sell it to anyone for 3 motnhs while he still have your money.

sure ita an hour south, but if he wants to sell you the car, he will be willing to do so

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
this is a legally binding contact and will last 3 months, therefore he can not let anyone look at it or sell it to anyone for 3 motnhs while he still have your money.

I'm not sure whether that is true mindflux. I know a deposit is *meant* to be binding, but I think the seller can refund the deposit at any time and not sell you the car if they decide. 3 Months I doubt they actually have to keep the car for that long. Otherwise I could go around town and put deposits on 50 GTR just *incase* in 6 months i had enough to buy one, and they couldn't sell it to anybody else. I dont think that is how it works.

Likewise I know plenty of buyers who pike on their deposits and don't take the car.. so its not binding in that way.

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

I just took it to RACQ, but because my R33 was an import I hads to take it to the main RACQ operations Centre at Eight Mile Plains.

They went through it with a fine tooth comb, and pointed every single little thing that was out of place even down to these cracks in the Mags, which were replaced before I bought it, but I would not have thought tolookat them.

Cost a bit though, $270 for the mech and electrical inspection plus 1 years membership with RACQ. Money well spent if you ask me!

mindflux Mentor

mindflux

Posted
Posted

predator - yeah im 99% sure im correct, i couldnt be bothered looking it up to tell you if im wrong.. but quite a few people have told that its a contract for 3 months..

and yes your correct the seller can refund your money whenever they feel like it, and im pretty cure the buyer has to accpet the refund otherwise it wouldnt stand up in court

but yeah i couldnt be botherd explaing :D

blx Experienced

blx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the reply's

I am about to book it in with stateroads. They come round and do it all in the owners drve way. Cost - $179 but has full compression tests, previous damage and encumberance checks.

If all goes well the Skyline will be in my garage on tuesday night!

I hope so anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...