Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling When The A/c Is On

BB81DO

By BB81DO,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BB81DO Proficient

BB81DO

Posted
Posted

hey all

just wondering if anyone can help me

i have a slight issue with the 33

because of the heat today i had the a/c running in the car and when i was in car park and my 33 stalled

after a while it started to overheat ( that was after 3hrs of running)

i am mainly worried about it stalling when i am in car parks ...........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352473-stalling-when-the-ac-is-on/
Share on other sites
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

yeap, so you think.

I often wonder how many retards will ever learn that a ATMO BOV is a BIG f**kING AIR LEAK in your intake system.

When the car is under a little bit of load with the AC on, it pulls more vacuum, pulls the BOV open, leaks air, and you run as rich as f**k.

You're wondering why you smell fuel. Its the BOV.

There is a reason why they plumb back the factory Mitsubishi BOV. because it has a permanent leak, and the AFM measures this air and expects it to go into the engine. Not out your BOV.

Putting on that BOV would have done absolutely nothing for you, except made you car sound like a wanker, stall, and over fuel. NExt time your coasting to a set of lights at about 3k. Push the clutch in. I bet the taco sinks like a stone and it stalls.

I can guarantee that if you install the factory one back on, your problems will go away. Maybe after you change your already f**ked spark plugs.

Can mods start banning anyone that posts "My car runs like shit, it has a ATMO BOV" threads please.. Sick of the absolute stupidity I read.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

My car runs poorly with AC and I run the standard BOV. To say the least though, it doesn't stall but its definitely harder to move off the lights than with the AC off. Ive got new plugs too. I think my AAC might be dirty...

And damn these air cons are shit in 39+ weather lol.

Edited by SargeRX8
BB81DO Proficient

BB81DO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it was also doing it with the factory BOV but not as bad ........

1. i changed the before putty road crusie

2. did was you said it would go off becasue of the GATE which is plumbed back into the exhaust !!!!

it was a simple question , the bov is only there as a stop becasue its not even hooked up ..... thats right no vacuum line to the BOV

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

it was also doing it with the factory BOV but not as bad ........

1. i changed the before putty road crusie

2. did was you said it would go off becasue of the GATE which is plumbed back into the exhaust !!!!

it was a simple question , the bov is only there as a stop becasue its not even hooked up ..... thats right no vacuum line to the BOV

You can't just stop a BoV by not hooking it up. It's held closed by the pressure of the vacuum line - without that, all you have is the very weak spring, which will open up very easily.

No wonder it's running terribly... Please put it back the way it was with a vent-back, hooked up with a vacuum line.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

maybe we should ask what the brand and model of the atmo BOV he is using, cause I run a HKS ssqv and have none of these issues, and before you start bagging, the tuner chose to use it over the std one I supplied both were supplied to him...

I have no stalling issues with or without AC on... 21psi of boost @ 290rwkw...

the tuner did say the BOV was very surprising to him and that it held closed very well and didnt leak like most others do, that is why he used it.

maybe only some atmo bovs have given them all a bad name in some regards, not all but some problem areas...

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

I don't really care what anyone says - The facts are, if you use a ATMO BOV in a Air flow meter application, then its WRONG.

The BOV will be so tight its not doing its job at all, so they are useless. Nissan made them plumb back for a reason. GTRs even.

So don't try and justify an ATMO BOV. It is wrong in airflow metered induction systems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...