Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

From what i have seen of some dyno results the Series 2 for the 95 model gtst's are superior to the series 1 ecus because the 95 series ecus have a better air/fuel ratio pretty much a better factory tune. I'm not sure about the 96 series 2 ecus etc but in general year after year of production of these cars they usally fix little bugs and clean up fuel maps abit etc. Try and find one that is specific to your model, if you cant find a series 2 one try and go for whatever you can get if you need quick. My 2 Cents

From what i have seen of some dyno results the Series 2 for the 95 model gtst's are superior to the series 1 ecus because the 95 series ecus have a better air/fuel ratio pretty much a better factory tune. I'm not sure about the 96 series 2 ecus etc but in general year after year of production of these cars they usally fix little bugs and clean up fuel maps abit etc. Try and find one that is specific to your model, if you cant find a series 2 one try and go for whatever you can get if you need quick. My 2 Cents

i thought series II only start from 96 models up?

because i think i have a late 95 model, and i;ve only seen 96 models and above which start having extra air bag, different interior, kit and etc.

or is there actually a 95 series II ?

i thought series II only start from 96 models up?

because i think i have a late 95 model, and i;ve only seen 96 models and above which start having extra air bag, different interior, kit and etc.

or is there actually a 95 series II ?

The '95 model is often referred to as the series 1.5 because it looks like a series 1, but has many series 2 components, such as ECU, engine, AFM, etc. If yours is a late 95 model, it's definitely a series 1.5 and has the improved bits in it.

The '95 model is often referred to as the series 1.5 because it looks like a series 1, but has many series 2 components, such as ECU, engine, AFM, etc. If yours is a late 95 model, it's definitely a series 1.5 and has the improved bits in it.

ok, thought so too, but that still doesnt asnwer

if there is a 95 model series II?

The '95 model is often referred to as the series 1.5 because it looks like a series 1, but has many series 2 components, such as ECU, engine, AFM, etc. If yours is a late 95 model, it's definitely a series 1.5 and has the improved bits in it.

i think that answers your question perfectly. its a 1.5 so No there is no or highly unlikely that there is a 95 series 2.

I have an october 95 series 2... has the different squarer headlights, bonnet, grill, bumper, passenger + drivers airbag, update interior, colour coded skyline badge on the boot instead of the clear one that matches the indicators and so on. Mine has the mesh grill instead of the letter box grill, apparently an indicator of early series 2.

yep got a nov 95 series I but shit load of series II stuff like motor, exterior bits but no second airbag, talking bout airbags my light on the dash constantly has the airbag light on anyidea how to get rid of it and yes i don't have the stock steering wheel any more so no airbag

I have an october 95 series 2... has the different  squarer headlights, bonnet, grill, bumper,  passenger  + drivers airbag, update interior, colour coded skyline badge on the boot instead of the clear one that matches the indicators and so on. Mine has the mesh grill instead of the letter box grill, apparently an indicator of early series 2.

there we go :)

From memory when looking into my ECU ('95 Series 1.5) their are 7 different R33 GTS-t ECU models. The ECU I had was in the middle of that list (4th or 5th). I'd love to know what the difference is of each individual model.

Here is a pic of my Stock ECU: http://skylines.pnc.com.au/ecu.jpg

If your looking for ECU get your self a Power FC direct replacement ECU. Less hassles of wiring, uses original sensors and is tuneable up to 600hp, what I like about this ECU is the detonation warning light which is really handy for monitoring purposes. It's about $1600 brand new incl. GST with warranty and tech support if needed. I beleive the price is only for the ECU excludes hand controller.

The dates the jap use (for years) are based on eras. The last one, under emperor Hirohito was Showa, the current one is Heisei under emperor Akihito. The era began in 1989, so that year is Heisei 1, 1995 is therefore year 7

You can find the build date on your jap compliance plate, if you have the original books, you will be able to find the delivery date too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...