Jump to content
SAU Community

O-Ringed Block + Gasket

Super_Dude

By Super_Dude,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

A reputable engine shop shouldnt be using plastigauge as the only means of checking clearences. I won't elaborate on that anymore, I think the reasons why have been covered enough already. It really sounds like the engine was just slapped together with a quick plastigauge check, rather than they assemble and check all the clearances precicely, so that it meets your requirements and will be able to support the power you are after with any degree of longevity.

Check your ring clearences when it is torn down and re-checked. If they arent the same, and correct for every cylinder it will give you a better idea as to what the "build quality" really was. A lot of builders are slack as it takes time to file 24 piston rings precicely.

7 thou end float is the maximum recommended in the service manual. I wouldnt go any more than 8 thou with a thicker oil, otherwise keep it factory spec.

The whole point of running the bigger clearances in the big end of the engine is to allow you to run a heavier grade oil (20w50) to have a thicker oil film, providing better protection for your bottom end bearings. Your bad ass external pump will meet the flow and pressure requirements but you really need to have the right clearances and run the thicker oil to make the most of it. You won't have any issues with oil pressure and the thicker oil provided you limit the use of your right foot until your oil temps are above 75 degrees.

Super_Dude Enthusiast

Super_Dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im extremely picky about waiting till oil temps are up before doing anything with my car.

The engine was actually built for someone else and when he couldnt pay I picked it up for dirt cheap. Im not sure what they used on the to measure everything but it was in my freinds garage when we checked with plastigauge ourselves.

Ive already ordered new pistons for it, polished the mains/rod journals, acid dipped it, and now we are going back and redoing the clearances. Probably should have just done it myself in the first place.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...