Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is a quick rundown on the installation of the G.R.I.D Dash Dancer Electronic Torque Split Controller

The G.R.I.D Dash Dancer is the cheaper alternative to the G.R.I.D TS-dancer and the HKS ETC

http://www.excite.co.jp/world/url/?wb_url=..._co=excitejapan

Firstly, the package comes with 2 units, the controller and a silver metal interface box with 4 coloured wires

The Interface box splices into the 4WD computer in the Boot of the R32, R33 and R34 GTR's (don't know if it works with GTS-4's etc..)

The 4WD computer is the bottom silver box hanging from the rear parcel shelf sitting next the the battery (in an R33 that is).

to install the Dash Dancer, you must remove this computer and disconnect the wiring harness, it is pretty hard to work on the harness when reaching into the boot so i eventually took the plunge and jumped in (nice and comfy, not!)

Please refer to the wiring diagram (kindly translated by 51LBA) as attached (unless you read japanese the supplied wiring diagram is useless!)

Firstly, cut the light blue cable, attach the supplied connectors to the end of the wires. The Yellow wire attaches to the newly installed connector on the harness side, the Black cable then connects to the light blue cable on the car side of that light blue cable

The Red cable from the Dash Dancer then splices into the Green/Red (green cable with Red line) cable from the wiring harness.

The Green cable from the dash dancer then splices into the Black/Pink cable from the wiring harness.

Connect the harness back into the 4WD computer, put the computer back into it's bracket, before installing the right hand nut to secure the computer, place the silver interface box over the bolt, and screw on the nut.

wire the controller up into a convenient place in the car, and plug the controller cable into the interface box.

Start up the car and ensure that that a light comes on on the controller.

There are 2 buttons on the controller, a square on/off button (to swtich between the factory auto 4WD and the controller) and a round button that allows selection between 4WD and FR (rear wheel drive)

At no time should the 4WD warning light come up on the dashboard, if so, recheck your wiring (especially the Yellow and black wires)

That's it, you should now have full control of your 4WD system!! enjoy!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35275-r33-grid-dash-dancer-ets/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

G.R.I.D Dash Dancer ETS - It control the 4 wheels system , what it acctually does is, it control the front wheel Torque. We can adjust 0%, 2%, 12, to 50% of Torque to the front wheel..if let say we adjust 50% of Torque to the front wheel, then the GTR will have 50/50 like 4wd wrx

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Does this have any negative affects no the wet-clutch system in the tourque drive system itself? It was never designed to be used in this mannor so just wandering if it causes extra wear and tear on this portion of the drivetrain? Thanks guys.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Please don't chat in this section, post general questions in the relevent section..

you leave the ETS on the auto mode, this acts like a standard GTR, if you don't want 4wd, you turn the controller on (off auto), and set it to 2wd..

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...