Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

Over the last day or two I have noticed a very load rattle that sounds like it's coming from the front end of my engine.

The noise only occurs when I apply throttle or when I start the engine cold and its idling around 1000rpm. its a very load 'tick, tick, tick' sound. As I apply more throttle the noise gets louder.

There is however no performance problems and the car still runs great and idles steady. It just sounds like shit when I put the foot on the accelerator.

I'm taking it to be looked at tomorrow but if I have an idea about whats wrong it might save the mechanic sratching his head for an hour.

Anyway some advice would be fantastic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35336-loud-rattle-from-engine-help-needed/
Share on other sites

seriously.. don't drive it at all except to a garage! sounds 90% chance the timing belt..or idler tensioners. If the timing belt snaps your engine will be in serious trouble.

Is the car up to or around 100,000km ?

The car is at 70,000km.

If it is the timing belt why is the car running well??

Me and my brother both had R33 GTST in the past and both needed the timming belts changed at around 70,000Km's. both had the ticking noises, and no decrease in performance...get it changed if thats the prob, you dont want it to snap!!!!

i second wat pred said.

wat yr is the car.....70k isnt necesarily geniune k's. my mates 96 rex had something similar to yours. he had this awful rattling sound commin on start up and idle and got worse when accelerating just like ur case. i had a look under the bonnet and *** me his timing belt pully was loose as a whore and was about to fall off. took a chance and drove it a couple blocks to a freind mech who said after he replaced it that he was one lucky bastard!! start your car up and check to see if any of the pulleys are wobbling. get a mech to come to ur house if possible.

My 33 has a rattle when cold at about 1700rpm, the noise dies away as the engine revs past this point. The noise also goes away when the engine is warm. Similar problem or just rattly valve train when cold?

Snake - do you have forgies?

if so - then it is just the rattle of them until they warm up and expand to the cylinder bore!

Hello

Over the last day or two I have noticed a very load rattle that sounds like it's coming from the front end of my engine.

The noise only occurs when I apply throttle or when I start the engine cold and its idling around 1000rpm.  its a very load 'tick, tick, tick' sound.  As I apply more throttle the noise gets louder.

Have you run the engine really hard lately - or overboosted it?

Are you blowing smoke?

Have you lost compression in a cylinder?

Hope its not serious

Nah dont have forgies.... Running mobil one synthetic 5w-50... maybe a little on the thin side?

Could be just some piston slap - if it gets better when warm - probably don't need to worry

I use a 10w-30 for mine - copes very well on the track

You can get a Mobil one 10w-40 I think - bit more exy than the 5w-50 but meant to be better fot turbo cars ...

which oil to use ... now that's a good thread to start up :D

I just had the mechanic check the car before work this morning and one of the bolts that goes into the head is missing (it must have come lose and gone). The noise is the exhaust gas escaping from the head and rattling passed the gasket.

He reckons it will take him 5 hours, replace all the bolts and gasket and cost me $600.

My normal mechanic has moved away and this seems a little steep. Tell me what you think

Just a quick question, but are any of the RB motors non interference? Or do they all break stuff when a belt goes?

They break & bend everything when the belt goes... :)

QuickR33Melb:

All RB motors are renound for exhaust studs/bolts to break off, and for the manifold to come loose on the head.

However for a mechanic to take 6 hours!! to replace a exhaust gasket! thats a worry. 3 hour job MAX!

$50 gasket, and a couple a hundred for labour would be all i would pay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...