Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well its in and installed now, it turns out that routing the tubing is actually pretty easy... heres how i did it.

For an S1 R33

1. Remove the dash panel below the steering wheel.

2. Remove the lining that runs up the a pillar then along the top of the drivers door.

3. This should reveal a gap at the base of the a pillar.... run your tubing down this to get it under the dash.

4. take the end of the tubing and tread it through the existing hole in the firewall (located just behind the right hand edge of where the stereo sits, maybe a little higher)

5. this should exit just to the right of the intake manifold if your looking at the engine from the front.

6. Now comes the choice of lines to tap. The closest line is the line that runs to the stock boost sensor (little black box located in the back left corner of the engine bay when viewed from the front). This line leaves from the back of the intake manifold and runs straight left. This is nice and convenient, But if like me you have an apexi mech boost gauge, the supplied T peice is too big for this hose, so instead use the hose from the front of the manifold, its thicker and just like the one from the back... it will gauge the intake manifold pressure. For this i ran under the air intake and other leads to the front.

7. Cut the desired hose where u wish to join and insert your T peice.

8. Attach your gauge hose to your T peice.

9. use cable ties or similar to tighten the join on the T peice

10. find and attach gauge wires to power if applicable (i'm not going to tell you which one, just find on with power when the lights are on but non when they're not (lighter adapter for instance).

11. Depending on the length these wires can either follow tyhe tubing or instead shortcut down the side of the dash and under the panel removed earlier, dont worry when we put the panel back on it will be protected/hidden.

12. Next replace the 2 removed panels (the a pillar panel and the footwell panel)

13. connect your gauge to your hose and wiring and mount as needed....

All done with no hole drilling...

did i miss anything?

How do you keep the A pillar mount on? I put mine on with sticky tape for a week or 2 and then removed it because I wasn't prepared to drill and it looked dodgy with electrical tape holding it on. The only way I can think of that you can do it is to drill it.

You mean like a greedt apillar mount? or just a standard mount at the a pillar?

I am just using the gauge mount that came with the gauge for now (my a pillar mount is on its way, should have it in a week or 2) and with that i just turned it sideways and lodged it into a gap in the dash (surprisingly secure there actually).

As soon as i get my mount i'll post a follow up to this for it. that said if u gimme a pic of the back of the mount i might be able to figure something out before hand.

You mean like a greedt apillar mount? or just a standard mount at the a pillar?

I am just using the gauge mount that came with the gauge for now (my a pillar mount is on its way, should have it in a week or 2) and with that i just turned it sideways and lodged it into a gap in the dash (surprisingly secure there actually).

As soon as i get my mount i'll post a follow up to this for it. that said if u gimme a pic of the back of the mount i might be able to figure something out before hand.

Ahh ok, yeah I was thinking of my dual gauge GReddy one. Pain in the arse it is. Anyone want to buy it? $50?

  • 1 year later...

just to confirm, is the circle marked in green the "little black box" everyone refers to when talking about the hose that the bosst gauge should be "t" into???

if so does that mean the green arrow i have pointed to, is the right hose to tap into, as that hose is coming off the black box and into the back of the manifold.

does it matter where i cut off the hose and "t" it in or not?

just to confirm, is the circle marked in green the "little black box" everyone refers to when talking about the hose that the bosst gauge should be "t" into???

if so does that mean the green arrow i have pointed to, is the right hose to tap into, as that hose is coming off the black box and into the back of the manifold.

does it matter where i cut off the hose and "t" it in or not?

post-6529-1137118079.jpg

Edited by nsta
  • 2 years later...
just to confirm, is the circle marked in green the "little black box" everyone refers to when talking about the hose that the bosst gauge should be "t" into???

if so does that mean the green arrow i have pointed to, is the right hose to tap into, as that hose is coming off the black box and into the back of the manifold.

does it matter where i cut off the hose and "t" it in or not?

Hi

Im about to install this myself and was wondering if somebody could confirm the above? sorry to bring up a dead thread :sick: thanks alot guys :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...