Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I've had my MX-5 for 6 years now and I'm starting to think it's time for a change. I'll be a shame because I have a website deticated to my car but that's life.

I seem to have a thing for oddball cars though, as I'd prefer a Stagea over a Skyline just to be a little different. I love the shape of them, and the amount of room they have for spare tyres, tools etc.

I've been into drifting for a few years now and I'll want to be doing the same in the Stagea. It seems pretty easy to get these RWD (pull out the front shafts).

So, I've got a few questions if you guys don't mind.

Roughly what power does the RB engine get out of basic bolt on's (exhaust, intercooler etc).

Is the diff strong enough for the abuse that I plan to give it, or will I need to upgrade it to a Kaaz unit etc?

What kinda width/offset wheels can these suckers take?

What are parts like ? Say I smash the guards or door up ... will it cost me an arm and a leg and take months to find a replacement?

I can't seem to find out how heavy these things are, they are close to 2 tonne aren't they? (1800kg or something).

I haven't driven one yet, but I am expecting to feel like a big ass boat (compared to my MX-5) anyway ... is there any Stagea importers in sydney that I could go have a look at? Ideally I'd be after a black series II with a manual (don't want to do a conversion, already went through that on the 5).

Or would any of you kind fellas take me for a spin? I'm located around the Liverpool area.

Sorry for all the questions guys. Here's a pic of my shitter to make up for it (kinda).

Random-Snap-050.jpg

Adam.

While were at it, how hard are these to convert to manual? I'd presume just clutch pedal, slave, master, clutch flywheel and box? or do you need shit like driveshaft and mounts?

Looking forward to some answers :D

Adam.

you could just buy a manual Stagea C34.

If your planning on drifting it, I'de stay away from M35's as it works out to be a costly exercise with manual/rear wheel conversions unless you buy a v35 manual front cut.

loving the mx5 mate.

heavy yes, not sure exactly but I'd say you wouldn't get much change, if any, from 1800kg.

cooler, zorst, nistune should see 200rwkw depending on boost. internally these motors will handle ~280-300rwkw with a metal headgasket and headstuds (proven in my other car)

I'm relativly new to stags myself but a dayz front bar from my favorite wrecker set me back $500. although if you hunt, parts can be found on the forums or eBay. but as you can imagine these arnt the most common cars so colour of parts might not always be what you after.

diff wise, shafts are smaller compared to gtr, but there is a thread floating around for a gtr diff swap.I've found mixed opinions on pulling the front shafts out. I haven't done it myself so I can't tell you from personal experience.

should be able to find more info searching.

hope this helps, i can't post links as I'm on a iPhone.

I am thinking about selling mine

Series 2 with r34 front, converted manual, 250rwkw (15psi) capable of 300 on 19-20psi and tune

Custom paint , wheels. susp, brakes the list goes on.

Edited by darrinspencer

I am thinking about selling mine

Series 2 with r34 front, converted manual, 250rwkw (15psi) capable of 300 on 19-20psi and tune

Custom paint , wheels. susp, brakes the list goes on.

Wot? Y?

cooler, zorst, nistune should see 200rwkw depending on boost. internally these motors will handle ~280-300rwkw with a metal headgasket and headstuds (proven in my other car)

You don't need a metal headgasket or studs for this sort of power level.

diff wise, shafts are smaller compared to gtr, but there is a thread floating around for a gtr diff swap.

The RS4S (ie manual series 2) has the larger driveshafts.

if you don't need the cavernous space that is the Stagea boot, i'd recommend driving a Toyota Caldina as well

they're a fair bit lighter than a Stagea (1400 vs 1600 roughly, i think), are available in manual (well the ST215's are), and have the 3S-GTE motor from the Celica GT-4 etc.

i own a factory manual C34 (RS Four S) and my mate owns an ST215 Caldina

i know if i didn't need the bootspace, i'd buy a Caldina

bit harder to make big power out of the 3S-GTE, but there's only so much power you need

You don't need a metal headgasket or studs for this sort of power level.

sure you dont NEED to, but I think for the price it's cheap security to eliminate the weak point. personally I wouldn't run anything over 300kw on an unopened 25. it can obviously be done but I like driving my car to it's full capabilities without having to worry about something going wrong.

do you know if the rs4s shafts are the same as gtr?

i'd strongly suggest buying an RS4S - stronger drive line, LSD, manual from factory - all you need to do is pull the front drive shaft and you've got a RWD car that will make 200rwkw with basic breathing mods which should be enough to do this:

3.jpg

sure you dont NEED to, but I think for the price it's cheap security to eliminate the weak point. personally I wouldn't run anything over 300kw on an unopened 25. it can obviously be done but I like driving my car to it's full capabilities without having to worry about something going wrong.

do you know if the rs4s shafts are the same as gtr?

Why is it a weak point? The gaskets don't fail.

Good tuning with proper knock sensing & using quality fuel doesn't require a drop in compression. There are lots of higher comp cars out there nowadays that run without issue so 9:1 isn't exactly pushing the boundaries.

Poor tuning will kill any engine at any power level.

Issues like cooling start to become part of the problem at higher power levels and over 300rwkw for prolonged periods you are asking a lot of stock parts.

I run 280rwkw on and internally stock R33 and chose to stop there rather than going further for a big number out of sympathy for an older engine so I definitely agree that there a point where prudence should take over.

I personally wouldn't pull the head off a perfectly healthy RB, just in case, as it is money that can be spent on tuning or other more performance enhancing mods.

I believe the RS4S driveshafts are the same as an R33 GTR (I haven't checked part numbers on FAST so this should be taken with a grain of salt).

the reason why I swapped is because 2 friends of mine both blew headgaskets in the chase for 300kw. this was my personal reason. but like you said, poor tuning could be to blame for what happened. I just didnt want to put everything together to then have to replace a h. gasket.

Thanks for all the input guys!

Sounds like it'll reletively easy to set everything up for some skids.

Are these steering racks in these things the same as an R33 or anything? just wondering about tie rod's and all that jazz now.

if you don't need the cavernous space that is the Stagea boot, i'd recommend driving a Toyota Caldina as well

they're a fair bit lighter than a Stagea (1400 vs 1600 roughly, i think), are available in manual (well the ST215's are), and have the 3S-GTE motor from the Celica GT-4 etc.

i own a factory manual C34 (RS Four S) and my mate owns an ST215 Caldina

i know if i didn't need the bootspace, i'd buy a Caldina

bit harder to make big power out of the 3S-GTE, but there's only so much power you need

Honestly, I prefer the Stagea over the Caldina.

I'm not so worried about weight, just curious to know what a Stagea actually weighs. I also love the sound of the RB engines :D

1720kg mine weighed with manual rb26 in it.

im tempted to sell mine too, but not sure at moment, its got all the good stuff already and plenty of mods. rb26 head on rb30 block (fresh rebuilt motor with sump adaptor so still 4wd), 5 speed, r34 brembos, bilstein coilovers, whiteline swaybars, all new whiteline bushes, single gt3076r turbo (making around 370hp at wheels at moment), external gate, gtr diffs and axles and 260rs cradle, nismo lmgt2 18x10 rims, autronic ecu, exhuast, etc etc, fully permited. Only problem is im in Perth lol.

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...