Does Any One Know Somthing About My Problem

[fly333]

Hi

i have a 1996 r33 series 2 Gts-t and i have had some problems with it after i had the following dump/front pipe and a tune done by a workshop. I took my car out and after hitting high revs then backing off the accelerator suddenly my cars idle droppes below 500 and fluctuated and the engine shakes and It seems that my car is using more fuel then it used to HELP!!!!.

So i tried to see if i could fix the problem. .. I changed to a high flow fuel pump, changed the fuel filter,installed yellow jacket coils and plugs and air flow meter was changed and even the ecu was changed but still same problem.. after all this i took my car to a skyline mechanic and he still could not find the problem can someone please help me I've spend nearly thousands of dollars trying to sort this problem out but it seems its a mystery

BTW the car runs Ok at low revs but once you hit high revs the car begins to play up.

Mods

FMIC

Full Turbo Exhaust System

High Flow Fuel Pump

Standard Ecu

Yellow Coil Pack

Boost Controller (10psi)

Cheers

Edited February 17, 2011 by fly333

[Shazza24]

How could they tune your ecu if its standard? Unless you have the Nistune board added to it.

As for your problem it could be: Worn CAS, Air leaks on intake side.

Can't really think of anything else at the moment.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

you are probably seeing over 10psi and going into rich and retard mode.

your ecu will be retarding the timing majorly as the stock setup is not designed to take 10+psi

some cars do it at 10psi, some at 12, etc etc

but it's always around 10

try dropping the boost and seeing what happens

also what kind of a "tune" did the workshop say they gave you with a stock ecu?

[fly333]

Hi well they played with crank angle senser add more timing stupid people I tried running stock boost but still same. Could it be the stock bov? Cheers

[adis]

Blocked blow off valve? Does your car "flutter"?

[fly333]

No its not fluttering

Edited February 17, 2011 by fly333

[~R33AzzA~]

sounds like the issue when the bov is blocked off... check all the hoses to the bov and turbo.

[vspecIInur]

To me it's a bov problem.

[fly333]

I have a standard bov.. How do I check the bov?

[fly333]

I have a standard bov.. How do I check the bov?

[Birds]

My question is, if the car start exhibiting these symptoms after you modified it...why on earth did you go replacing everything else in the engine bay instead of checking what you just changed about the engine? Should have taken it straight back.

Could be the wastegate not opening up enough = R&R mode. If it's one of those el cheapo split pipe dumps, welcome to the world of rich and retard. Disconnect the actuator arm from the wastegate periscope and see how much movement there is for the flap...it should be able to open a full 90 degrees, if not more.

[fly333]

I'll check it out another thing it much worse when you first start the car and accelerate.

[Fullboost_Performance]

I had a similar problem with my old R33, my tuner/mechanic changed the CAS and re-dyno'd it and problem solved..

[fly333]

Hi I tried that but didn't solve the problem. I can't figure it out i have changed over everything trying to debug the problem. I have just decided to rebuild the whole engine.

Edited April 17, 2011 by fly333

[fly333]

Hi I tried that but didn't solve the problem. I can't figure it out i have changed over everything trying to debug the problem. I have just decided to rebuild the whole engine.

[fly333]

Hi I tried that but didn't solve the problem. I can't figure it out i have changed over everything trying to debug the problem. I have just decided to rebuild the whole engine.

[adis]

Hahah rebuild the whole engine? Thats a bit extreme??

[fly333]

Well what would you do if after spending thousands of dollars trying to diagnose the problem but can not find the issue. You would ether have to be a retard to spend anymore $$ on stock engine.

[Birds]

You would have to be a retard to rebuild the whole engine when it may have been an electrical fault and spending thousands rebuilding the engine may not solve the problem.

If you want to do the throw-money-at-it-until-the-problem-goes-away solution, buy a half cut or a long motor for $1500 and transplant everything.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

i suggest calling my friend henry and see him about it he helped me heaps with my car say i sent you, Bruno, Cosmic performance 0422 117 168

if not try to change 02sensor 120 at BURSONS its located near your turbo kind of sparkplug sticking out looking thingy lol, if not goto this guy he may help you