Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive stuffed my engine and gettingi it rebuilt. Am using metal head gasket , forged pistons, 660 injectors, fuel reg bigger turbo that starts making 0 psi at about 3 and full boost by about 4000 rpm. I am also getting new valve springs, cam gears etc. I am also planning on using a stallie for my car that locks at about 2800rpm. and was wondering could i get a lower rpm stallie and better set of cams to give me a bit more mid range torque? if so what type? I have looked at the tomei but they dont seem to suit my needs any ideas thanks ?

by the way im aiming at about 280-300 kilowatts at the wheels. this turbo can get that at around 18 psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/
Share on other sites

What turbo?

Honestly, stock cams are the best for your setup if you want response and mid-low end etc.

you'll get far more gain spending the cams money on beefing up the auto/shift speeds and so on.

Its a hypergear atr43g3 turbo and i am thinking of getting a stage 2 shift kit for it as well. Thanks for the input after looking on the net and around i think stock cams may be the best idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5685106
Share on other sites

just by reading the forums regularly, people steer clear of using aftermarket cams for the rb25det, the cost benefit ratio isn't good enough, stock cams are seem perfect for a street car/occasional track, people have easily got upward of 300rwkws on stock cams.

unless you want you car lumpy at idle with less low down torq :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5686321
Share on other sites

And good luck getting 300kw through a stock auto with just a hi stall (sounds more like a more-stall to me though). If you are seriously aiming for that sort of power (which I doubt it will make through an auto) you'll need a built box! Look into KEAS gear - or even MV autos in SA.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5687606
Share on other sites

just by reading the forums regularly, people steer clear of using aftermarket cams for the rb25det, the cost benefit ratio isn't good enough, stock cams are seem perfect for a street car/occasional track, people have easily got upward of 300rwkws on stock cams.

unless you want you car lumpy at idle with less low down torq :S

Lumpy idle and low down torque lover signing in (260's :) )

IF you are deadset on getting cams, I wouldn't want to go further than drop in 256's.

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5687742
Share on other sites

not through an auto it wont, and even with a manual box you will be needing a fair whack more than 18psi

Obviously this is depending on dyno and conditions, but keep in mind that assuming what I have is actually a g3 and not a g2 (performs like a g3 but I swear I ordered g2, not like it matters...), then he should see 300rwkw with 20psi max. On ESP's dyno I made 294.4rwkw on 15.9psi so 18psi same conditions would easily net me 300rwkw on their dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5687933
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be surprised if it's a happy reading dyno, but I'm fairly sure that it reads almost the same as Autotech as well as Ultimate Tunes.

Obviously this is different given he wants to make it through an auto. Might as well go with a 3076r or 3082r

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5687963
Share on other sites

Looking into hyper gear threads this power is achievable with the turbo that i have mentioned at that boost. Also i did mention using a built auto ( shift kit ) etc with the stall etc. so anyone commenting please read the whole thread :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5688488
Share on other sites

Looking into hyper gear threads this power is achievable with the turbo that i have mentioned at that boost. Also i did mention using a built auto ( shift kit ) etc with the stall etc. so anyone commenting please read the whole thread :)

We did read your thread - a shift kit and a stall is not a built auto. Its an auto with a shift kit and a stall. Good luck making 300rwkw with your stock auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354961-cams-help/#findComment-5691442
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...