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Hid (Kaixen) Install S2 Stagea

wolverine

By wolverine,
in Wagoneers

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wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

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I decided to replace the relatively disappointing halogens in stagea, we were having ongoing issues with them.

I have used another guide from SAU to help with my install, here is the link to that guide. R34 GTR HID install DIY

As we all now compliance butchers the factory Xenon loom (unless you ask nicely) so first I needed to know what kit would suit the stagea.

The type of headlights are imprinted on the top the headlight body all you need is a torch or daylight to read them. They are listed as D2R with the highbeams being listed as H1. (note: there are three types of HID's D2R (reflector type) and D2S (projector type) and D2C (interchangeable with both).

I chose to support a forum sponsor in Kaixen for my kit. It was suggested I use a D2C kit from them which cost $195 kit price + $15 D2C wire.

The kit contains everything you need but some basic tools are required such as screwdrivers, a drill, a small hole saw and some spanners.

It would have helped if I documented and photographed everything in real time but I hope I have covered the key points and issues.

1. Disconnect and/or remove the battery and factory airbox, if you are comfortable working in tight spaces you can work around them.

2. Remove the plastic headlight cover by turning it anticlockwise, release the clips holding the globe and remove globe. Remove the compliance installed aluminium H1 retaining plate (mine was located with adhesive so a pull with a hook removed it).

IMG_3578.jpg

If you look inside you will notice that there are small locating cams for the D2R/D2C globe at the top globe opening.

3. Try to find a location inside your engine bay within reach of all cables by dummy fitting the ballast (amplifier box) using the supplied brackets, double sided tape and cable ties. I found suitable locations using existing bolts or engine bay fittings.

During dummy fitting I came across the first issue for this install. The D2C cable comes out at 90 degrees and this makes it very difficult to find a way to get the cable out to the ballasts. The recommended method is to drill a hole at the back of the headlight cover but the angle of the cable is too extreme for my liking. My solution was to use a diegrinder to cut a relief at the bottom of both headlights.

**note the location of the cable when connected to the globe and consider the effect on the function of the cover before deciding where you remove material**.

IMG_3571.jpgIMG_3565.jpg

Equally a drill bit could be used. Cutting in this manner necessitates resealing the hole with something like silicon. (more discussion at the end on neater solutions such as the H1 kit)

4. Attach the power cable supplied with spade terminals to the existing +ve terminal (attached to the globe) and -ve terminals (attached to the globe surround) inside the headlight. Thanks to the compliance guys for getting their reds and blacks back to front. :wacko:

5. Attach ballasts to the engine bay.

IMG_3568.jpgIMG_3569.jpg

6. Connect all cables to the ballasts.

7. Replace headlight cover, battery and airbox (if removed).

8. Turn lights on.

IMG_3573.jpg

9. Test height of lights and adjust with the factory adjusters for the comfort and consideration of your fellow motorist.

In terms of installation the Kaixen H1 kit (vs D2C used) would probably be easier to install as it would require a using a using a hole saw on the headlight covers and already has a rubber grommet on the looms to the ballasts to reseal the hole. There is a suggestion that the D2C globes are less likely to glare compared to the H1's but I am not sure one way or the other. Maybe someone with specific knowledge can clear this up.

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adey88 Collaborator

adey88

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Posted

Nice write up wolverine, I installed a HID kit some time ago after compliance made a mess of my lights. I've never been happy with the install as I used a H1 kit and it does not sit in the aluminum Retaining plate properly...

You have motivated me to get the right bulbs (D2C) and rip out that crappy plate... Hopefully will have a set of decent lights soon!

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