Jump to content
SAU Community

Are you coming on the cruise  

22 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if there is anyone from the northern suburbs ( near Salisbury) that is going on this cruise

maybe we could convoy down to the meeting point

Was thinking of meeting at bunnings at Parafield airport maybe about 8:15 (think itll take about 45-60 mins to get there

P.M. if ya interested

just finished washing the stagea, she's all fueled up and ready to go.

weather is lookin good too!

P.S. i drove past the meet point today and the MOBIKL servo is shut down,

there is still a Caltex near by for fuel but if you want good stuff you might have to get it on the way to the meet point.

I'm leaving from Prospect about 8.30, happy to meet somewhere en route.

Prospect Maccas then , 8:30?

LOL :stupid: was thinking of pooraka Maccas

maybe the BP on south road next to torrens rd?

Edited by SatchiThaStagea

Prospect Maccas then , 8:30?

LOL :stupid: was thinking of pooraka Maccas

maybe the BP on south road next to torrens rd?

BP on South next to Torrens sounds good. See you there about 8.40!

I'll be working at Mt Alma next weekend. Race Official. Keep an eye out for me. But I'll see you guys at Seaford tomorrow.

I'll swing past the BP and maccas on South Road/Torrens Rd before 8.30am tomorrow. I'll be aiming to leave by 8.30 to be at Seaford before 9.30 ;)

Hey guys not happy missed this one was on the way but have been having coil pack problems and dropped 2 cylinders about 20 mins away from meet point :angry: oh well new coil packs should rock up this week and my z32 air flow meter wired emanage ultimate in last weekend so its whack the inectors in & off for a tune and a gut load more boost see what can happen :P

Awsome cruise big fella had a great time meeting new ppl, think we might have even convinced my mate to get a stag (hes inlove with the autech also)

My vids/pics will be up soon(not the one of my mates feet!:rant: ), finally got a decent sleep today so i may have a go a editing the vids after work tomorrow

Edited by SatchiThaStagea

Thanks for a good day Big Fella. Would have loved to stick around but was hosting for the GP.

Havent sorted photos yet, might try over the next couple of days.

Whos up for north or hills next time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...