Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I work there. It is parked on vicars st daily unless have by bike.

you prob saw it on Sandford St when I was going sign work at MBF.

My first Spotted hehe.

I do my best to keep my car well. Goes good for a GTS-T.

yeah i saw you driving past Gentech toward the lights (late afternoon). How much power is yours putting out?

I work there. It is parked on vicars st daily unless have by bike.

you prob saw it on Sandford St when I was going sign work at MBF.

My first Spotted hehe.

I do my best to keep my car well. Goes good for a GTS-T.

Dynotune belco put in the duel boost controller and did a tune, but the dyno sheet was from Jakes, so they may have done the last tune... cant be sure sorry.

I'd have to check the papers I have at home or ask the previous owner.

I find around town get 400-450kms from the tank... And that is me driving moderately nice. Drove to Picton and back and got a bit over 650kms on the tank and I pushed it on take offs 3 or 4 times on the trip.

pretty decent fuel figures too mate. I don't think i'm going to get anywhere near those figures with 500horses at the wheels lol

Highway driving I got from inner Sydney to Canberra with using just under a half a tank. I just filled the tank up - will report back on how many kms I get to the tank for city driving.

Dynotune belco put in the duel boost controller and did a tune, but the dyno sheet was from Jakes, so they may have done the last tune... cant be sure sorry.

I'd have to check the papers I have at home or ask the previous owner.

I find around town get 400-450kms from the tank... And that is me driving moderately nice. Drove to Picton and back and got a bit over 650kms on the tank and I pushed it on take offs 3 or 4 times on the trip.

I've got 160kw at the wheels, shit's crazy even in the dry.

I thought you had heaps more? Like 275 or something Troy? I have 220 when hit the boost switch. But my car is great and safe to drive wet or dry... Just dont give it too much boot at the wrong times...

just under 384kw at all fours.. and very drivable in traffic for that much power. I've racked up 300km and have a quarter of a tank left (thats sensabile daily driving) - not too shabby figures for the power.

You get nearly 373kw at the wheel? Impressive!

I'm still concerned about your tune J'son.

Mines ECU CANNOT be tuned, it's basically a stock ECU with its maps changed a bit to suit a few bolt on's and japanese climate/fuel.

220rwkw is a LOT for the stock 33 (non NEO) turbo. And your fuel consumption is amazing! I got 600ks on the highway with perfect 14.7:1 AFR's

Have you personally seen the dyno/graph and spefically the AFR plot?

That is true, the Mines doesn't get or need tuning.

FMIC, spitfire coils, lightened flywheel and the ecu seems to have done it though.. And that was at 11psi. Duel boosts 6 and 11. Runs really beautifully.

I posted the grapu on here somewhere at one point.

Here it is again.

Edited by J'son
  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...