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Blitz boost controller $300

HKS gauges and pillar (oil temp, Boost and Volts gauges) $350

1 CAS RB26 $200

Motec CAS Rb26 $200

G reddy single turbo Dual airflow MTR intake fitting $180

R33 GTR Gear box good condition $800

RB26 Short HKS 40thou forged pistons after market forged rods needs crank matching block to pistons in good condition $1100

Hoosier tyres 18x-275-35zr 40% tread good grip R spec tyres $400

R33 GTR gear box mounts $50 each

RB 26 ignition igniter $200

R33 GTR gear stick with carbon gear stick knob $100sold air flow meters

R33 GTR Air bag 95-96 $100

Various elbows turbo pipes from $60 HKS and Greddy for twin turbo and single turbo

R 33 GTR clock for 4 wheel steer fits under steering wheel $200

G reddy injectors 1 set 660 cc $350 PER SET good condition

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
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    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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