Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

13.8 - 14.4 is ideal. little under is ok but 12.6 is too low. is that the best you get out of it or does it get better with rpm? were any accesories being run like lights or stereo? when you stop the engine and just have the key on what is the voltage? need to ensure that gauge is reading correctly first then go from there.

  • Like 1

Test it from the battery - in my experience, the MFD reads slightly low (though, even then seems even lower than I'd expect)

Edit: Just went and checked my MFD - reads 14.1V at idle (and 14.3V directly at the battery) - weird - seem to remember it being out by more (i thought 1V) when I first checked ..

Anyway - hopefully that helps; definitely sounds like you have dramas with your alternator if that's the voltage whilst idling/driving...

  • Like 1

No lights or stereo being run, without the engine running voltage is 12.4....Same readings from battery give or take .1... Took it to mechanics said the alternator is running and charging ok :dry: but its down near 12 and should be up near 14

No lights or stereo being run, without the engine running voltage is 12.4....Same readings from battery give or take .1... Took it to mechanics said the alternator is running and charging ok :dry: but its down near 12 and should be up near 14

hope u didnt pay him for that advice.. better off taking it to an auto elec, alternator might be on its way out

there is a chance the alternator is ok but the wiring is the problem. check the voltage at the alternator (although i have a feeling that if the earth to the alternator is dicky then it will lower the voltage reading you get there too).

ok im an auto elec...battery volts should be 13.8 - 14.4 with the revs up so the alternator is wroking harder and charging, gauge is always going to get lower as remember there will be a drop is volts in the leads, test the battery with a multimeter and also at the alternator there will be a differents onces again in the cable....if a alternator/ battery is lower then 13.4 running id be getting the alternator rebuild dont go out and buy one cheaper to fix urs

what do u mean how does it cost, to pull one down, clean, sand blast, replace bearing, and any other parts to make it new is cheaper the buying one,

we charge $132 plus parts, take half a day or so to do,

132 for half day is cheap :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...