Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Stock Boost gauge.

PTR33

By PTR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
Posted

Is the stock boost gauge any use in a R33?

I have been playing round with a bleed valve and nothing I do seems to make the gauge go above the halfway mark.

I know that the unit of measure is very roughly 7 on the gauge is 14psi but does it actually read true at the top of the scale?

All I have done is replace the solinoid with a bleed valve, is there a restriction in the std plumbing that will limit it to the same as the +5000rpm boost level? Because that seems to be all I am getting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35601-r33-stock-boost-gauge/
Share on other sites
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't rust the factory gauge at all !!

It's way too slow....

Get yourself an after market gauge, even if you just borrow one off a mate so you can tune the bleed.

When putting in a bleed valve, take out all the factory piping for the stock stuff. Put in new pipes and the bleed then tune it. Yes the factory pipework has a restrictor in it to limit things.

The brass restrictor is marked by a white/yellow stripe on one of the pipes.

J

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

The stock boost gauge is pretty useless. The units are difficult to decipher and it lacks markings. It's slow to respond to changes in boost pressure and will not really read spikes or anything well.

You can get a VDO or Autometer boost gauge pretty cheap.

PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanx for the input guys.

Bought a cheapie boost gauge and it is running about 8 pounds. Getting rid of the solenoid out of the circuit and losing the 2 stage boost has made the car HEAPS more fun to drive and won't have raised the peak power by 1 kw.

Really makes you think that something with a big fat midrange is going to cream a dyno queen on the street don't it?

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted

I found that the only real problem with the standard gauge is its size. Its just physically too small for the human eye to read accurately without markings. Comparing it with my Blitz gauge, the needle has about 5cm to move to reach 1 bar, whereas the stockie has maybe 2.5cm. I've noticed that it is a little slower but moves to a position where the maths suggest it should be (ie the mmHg of stock ~= Bar of Blitz).

Also, I set the boost level on a dyno (more accurate than any gauge) to 13 PSI and the needle sits a few mm below +7 where it should be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...