Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, i have some series one and series two parts for sale:

R33 series 1 coupe - front bumper $ 50 ( its no a type m or nothing just a standard bar, Good if you get a defect for clearance this bar is smaller, has some scratches )

R33 series 2 coupe - back seat side trims and the trims that go around the window ( complete both side) $70 ALL 4 (2 each side)

R33 sereis 1 coupe - spoiler ( in undercoat) $ 50

R33 series 1 coupe - boot (candy red) $80

R33 series 1.5 coupe - rear boot lip ( its under coat) $50

R33 series 2 coupe - mirror complete but no glass (white) $25

R33 series 2 coupe - drivers side door complete with glass window motor and locks (white) $150

R33 series 2 coupe - passenger side door complete with glass and locks (white) $110 glass is not in the door but it comes with it. ( no window motor)

R33 series 1.5 coupe - door trims with red vinyl inserts no bad condition (passenger side comes with window switch) $40 both

R34 auto steering wheel with buttoms (not bad condition) bit worn - $100

R34 Skyline - lhf mirror - $100

R34 Skyline - rhf mirror - $100

R34 Skyline front bar - $240. (its off a turbo coupe) Yellow

R34 Skyline strut brace (genuine). Its adjustable - $100

R34 washer bottle with washer motors - $90

R33 Series 2 Headlights in good condition - $400 pair

R34 Passenger gaurd - $300

R34 Coupe turbo diff complete - $500

R34 Dash bare but with passenger air bag - $250

R34 centre top air vents - $40

R34 Standard turbo exhaust from front pipe back - $180 (good if you ever cop a epa)

R34 standard air box and air flow meter - $200 (good for epa)

R34 center console where cd player goes - $80

Im in melbourne, thornbury (northern suburbs)

If you want anything let me know, its better if you msg me or call me 0434405366 ( as sometimes i dont have time to jump on the computer)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356339-r34-and-r33-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll take the front bar if you're happy to hang onto it until next weekend? (gotta fly to Perth for a wedding this weekend)

Or I can try and get there after work one day next week.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...