Jump to content
SAU Community

R35 Rims Cracking!

kymbo

By kymbo,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

kymbo Collaborator

kymbo

Posted
Posted

Just had a new set of the Dunlop's fitted to my black 2010 R35. My car has now only done 11,000Km and the Bridgestones were stuffed. In fact the inside edges were starting to show the belts.

Just when I thought the car should be ready, The tyre dealer brought in my left rear rim and pointed out a full blown crack on the inside rim lip that had made its way right through to the inside body, to the point where the knurling starts. I took some pics that I will post when I get a chance.

This is a bloody serious issue!

The tyre dealer said he has never seen that on a quality rim. I thought these rims were meant to be top quality Rays Wheels???????

I suggest all R35 owners check there rims for cracking, particularly the inside rim lip. In the least you could get a quick release of pressure, or at worst midway through a very hard corner at your local track or favourite mountain road the rim fails, and your wheel locks into the wheel well sending you off to the pearly gates a little sooner than you hoped?

My QLD Nissan dealer now has the car and said it would take about a week to get Melbourne to approve the warranty claim and get a new rim up. The Murano loaner, is just not cutting it.

Good luck and if anybody finds a crack, and considering how nutty our government is on OH&S, I hear a 'RECALL' coming!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356887-r35-rims-cracking/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

smart_one Apprentice

smart_one

Posted
Posted

That's a bugger. Could it have been a big pothole hit?

When i had a couple of cheaper rims crack, a few people told me stories about QUALITY rims cracking, FWIW.

If it was a pothole there would be evidence of the rim hitting the road, that would void warranty and the QLD dealer wouldn't bother asking Melbourne for a warranty job. For the tyre place and dealer not to mention anything like it has hit a pothole, then it really shouldn't have cracked. There is no excuse for the standard rim to crack if the rim it self didn't make contact with the road.

With these wheels being made in batches of hundreds at a time and with the fact that these cars are likely to get abused in their lifetime, I doubt this is the end of the story of R35 wheels cracking.

LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

If it was a pothole there would be evidence of the rim hitting the road, that would void warranty and the QLD dealer wouldn't bother asking Melbourne for a warranty job. For the tyre place and dealer not to mention anything like it has hit a pothole, then it really shouldn't have cracked. There is no excuse for the standard rim to crack if the rim it self didn't make contact with the road.

With these wheels being made in batches of hundreds at a time and with the fact that these cars are likely to get abused in their lifetime, I doubt this is the end of the story of R35 wheels cracking.

There are countless examples online of wheels cracking without visible evidence of abuse/damage.

Could be a lot of reasons for a stress fracture.

Let's see some pics of the entire wheel.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Metal fatigue verdict I presume will ultimately result from

* a series of anecdotes

* metal compression/stress testing

* batch feedback

I just hope we don't hear of a recall like what Audi had to do with some of their rims in the 90s

...and worse still, loss of life.

kymbo Collaborator

kymbo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

As you can see by these photos, the rim has a clean crack, with NO other rim damage.

I have never hit anything hard like a big pothole etc. I haven't even used the launch control. The car is always properly serviced and maintained.

Anyway, the latest word from the Nissan A-holes in Melbourne is that my rim is bent and it is my fault. Talk about dodging the issue?

LOOK AT THE PICS AND YOU TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK?

WHY SPEND $180K ON A CAR THAT NISSAN WILL NOT STAND BEHIND!

post-75605-0-46281600-1299825054_thumb.jpg

post-75605-0-83011500-1299825262_thumb.jpg

post-75605-0-19291600-1299825147_thumb.jpg

CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME HOW I CAN GET THIS POST WITH THESE PICS ONTO OTHER GTR SITES AROUND THE WORLD (ESPECIALLY JAPAN & US), SOONER OR LATER SOMEONE IS GOING TO PAY I PRICE THEY DON'T DESERVE!!!!!

ANYWAY, ANYBODY GOT A GOOD 2010 'REAR RIM' WITHOUT A CRACK IN IT, I AM A DEAD SET QUICK SALE!!!!

post-75605-0-34231700-1299825505_thumb.jpg

Edited by kymbo
LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

wow

were you losing tyre pressure before the tyre was changed at all?

Have you thought the tyre place might have done it when removing the tyre?

can you post up a full pic of the rim, square on. that might help see if it's still 100% round

kymbo Collaborator

kymbo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

wow

were you losing tyre pressure before the tyre was changed at all?

Have you thought the tyre place might have done it when removing the tyre?

can you post up a full pic of the rim, square on. that might help see if it's still 100% round

Tyre pressure was still holding, but as you can see the crack would only have to advance another mm and it would be a problem. The trouble with cracks though, is they can open slowly, or just let go and fully tear and split the rim. Especially if it is under a lot of force, like turning a corner at speed. Probably another thing Nissan will soon ban. Maybe that is why the cars have a G meters?

As soon as I can get the rim back from the dealer I will take a full rim pic and you will see the rim is perfectly round! and never been hit. NOT EVEN A GUTTER SCRATCH!

I personally watched the tyre place from start to end, even made sure they did not use a rattle gun (hand wheel braces used all round) and very good condition tyre fitting machine used VERY gently. Because I was very concerned about them bumping into the low tyre pressure warning modules.

Edited by kymbo
LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

Tyre pressure was still holding, but as you can see the crack would only have to advance another mm and it would be a problem. The trouble with cracks though, is they can open slowly, or just let go and fully tear and split the rim. Especially if it is under a lot of force, like turning a corner at speed. Probably another thing Nissan will soon ban. Maybe that is why the cars have a G meters?

As soon as I can get the rim back from the dealer I will take a full rim pic and you will see the rim is perfectly round! and never been hit. NOT EVEN A GUTTER SCRATCH!

I personally watched the tyre place from start to end, even made sure they did not use a rattle gun (hand wheel braces used all round) and very good condition tyre fitting machine used VERY gently. Because I was very concerned about them bumping into the low tyre pressure warning modules.

What's Nissans justification for denying warranty? I mean have they explained how they came to their conclusion.

You might consider having the wheel/s x-rayed. Who's to say the others do not have the same flaw.

If you want to buy a near new 2nd hand set of r35 wheels, the going rate is about $3k US on the nagtroc forum. Harder to find individual wheels though.

gregor Rising Star

gregor

Posted
Posted

Id be getting their reason in writing and then calling Nissan Australia head office - you've spent a lot of money with them and thats the sort of customer they wouldnt want to lose (logic being if you can afford a GTR you can probably afford to buy your mrs a new nissan whatever every few years, etc..) so ask them to look after you. Worst case they say no and you are no worse off.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I had a pair of Rays wheels do exactly that, It simply is caused by a big hit whether it be a road join or pot hole. Mine was a road join at a bridge doing 110km/h on the way to heathcote raceway in Vic, did it to my 2 front wheels, no other sign of damage etc just 2 big bloody cracks.

3LGODZILA Proficient

3LGODZILA

Posted
Posted

tyre fitter may have dropped it?

Tyre pressure was still holding, but as you can see the crack would only have to advance another mm and it would be a problem. The trouble with cracks though, is they can open slowly, or just let go and fully tear and split the rim. Especially if it is under a lot of force, like turning a corner at speed. Probably another thing Nissan will soon ban. Maybe that is why the cars have a G meters?

As soon as I can get the rim back from the dealer I will take a full rim pic and you will see the rim is perfectly round! and never been hit. NOT EVEN A GUTTER SCRATCH!

I personally watched the tyre place from start to end, even made sure they did not use a rattle gun (hand wheel braces used all round) and very good condition tyre fitting machine used VERY gently. Because I was very concerned about them bumping into the low tyre pressure warning modules.

LSX-438 Mentor

LSX-438

Posted
Posted

Just when I thought the car should be ready, The tyre dealer brought in my left rear rim....

Are you sure you were watching them 100% of the time? That's pretty hard to do, and i've always feel it's a bit odd/distrustful

The runflats are somewhat of a pain to remove, tyre fitters have damaged my rims trying fwiw.

N/A® Experienced

N/A®

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are you sure you were watching them 100% of the time? That's pretty hard to do, and i've always feel it's a bit odd/distrustful

The runflats are somewhat of a pain to remove, tyre fitters have damaged my rims trying fwiw.

Based on the dirt in the crack, it seems to have been there for some time.

What the yellow marking from?

Edited by N/A®
warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Put the wheel on the balancing machine and slowly rotate it using a dial gauge to measure radial runout. Then do the same for face runout. Video both of these (including showing the crack clearly in both videos so they can't accuse you of faking the vid) and send to Nissan proving that the wheel is within factory specs.

Note this may also prove that the wheel is bent (if it actually is). At least you'll know either way, and if the wheel is OK, you'll have some proof that Nissan will be hard pressed to refute.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...