Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Filter Relocation Kit Question...

neoRSwagon
 Share

Recommended Posts

neoRSwagon Apprentice

neoRSwagon

Posted
Posted

hey guys, just thinking about getting an oil filter relocation kit, one with out a cooler" , but when i install it, does it just screw onto the stock oil cooler? or do you have to remove it and block coolent lines or...?? as im sick of spending 45 mins getting the oil off the front diff. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357133-oil-filter-relocation-kit-question/
Share on other sites
pistol-pete Veteran

pistol-pete

Posted
Posted

the filter relocator kits dont change the way stock cooler is plumbed. you just screw the sandwich plate into the block and run the lines to the relocator which most people put on the rhs strut tower

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Put a Plastic bag over it :yes: ,

its not hard when you do that :thumbsup: ,

This method also works on ugly chicks.......

The plastic bag trick never worked for me, I still always ended up with oil all over the place. Oil filter relIcation kit makes it so much easier and cleaner.

Edited by QWK32
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Isent a PM but just realized that you cant PM yet. I relocated my filter to the D/S strut tower and moved the fuel filter back when fitting the F/F plenum and front mount. I also incorporated sensors in the lines for oil pressure and temperature gauges.

chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted

post-36964-0-21971300-1300087395_thumb.jpgpost-36964-0-64123400-1300089876_thumb.jpg

I have Relocation kit & kept stock filter too,

I PLASTIC BAG FILTER & put rag on top of diff & its ok no oil sitting there,

& i use New Fitler on Engine & move old filter to relocation,

as i run 20,000 per oil change & change filter at 10,000,

My Oil cooler has Thermostat in it,

best buy kits from states as most double there money on any kit brought here in Australia,

you can get adaptor with Thermostat in it ,

i priced a inline thermostat here & was quoted $120+,

got one from states for $45 usd,same price as TRANSMISSION FILTER KIT,

as you see both are in same spot ,

Run a good size oil line too,not a small line as you want good flow to any filter,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

SMOKEYV35 Mentor

SMOKEYV35

Posted
Posted

yeh if someone finds a good quality good priced kit to suit, let me know. i did my first change on it about a month ago and couldnt believe how tricky it was to get in there and then the mess ensued.

relocation kit would be awesome and allow you to run an even bigger filter if you wanted.

  • 1 month later...
WA Black Stag Rookie

WA Black Stag

Posted
Posted

Be careful with the Greddy kits - the lines on the one I got were way to short for the application. Do a check fit before you actually put it in, and go get some more line if you need it.

SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted

This method also works on ugly chicks.......

The plastic bag trick never worked for me, I still always ended up with oil all over the place. Oil filter relIcation kit makes it so much easier and cleaner.

cable ties.... Make sure you fasten it with cable ties.

P.S. May stop breathing.

Hanso Experienced

Hanso

Posted
Posted

The lines on my Greddy kit were a bit short for my liking. I have bolted the bracket under the fuel filter bracket. Still nice & easy to get to.

Pics aren't the best, will take a better one on my day off.

P4190006.jpg

P4190008.jpg

P4190007.jpg

P4190009.jpg

WA Black Stag Rookie

WA Black Stag

Posted
Posted (edited)

The lines on my Greddy kit were a bit short for my liking. I have bolted the bracket under the fuel filter bracket. Still nice & easy to get to.

The only problem with this is it makes the dipstick a pain in the arse to get to. I initially did it this way, but got the shits, cause I check my oil daily.

Getting new hose (not braided, but then again, I'm not a bling king, and I'm not running stupid pressure through it) cost me $30, including the 4 hose clamps that i needed.

Edit: Noticed that you're using an OX-03 filter in there as well, the relocation kit is actually designed to take an OX-02, slightly bigger.

Edited by WA Black Stag
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...