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Mitsi Evo 1-3 Intercooler


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As above couple of posts stated, getting the JJR version will work, but getting a Bitz outta Japan wont cost much more.

The reason i went blitz over JJR was because of the insane shipping costs. It worked out i think $100 more to get a Blitz.

I also think you are looking way to deep into the LTNZ laws regarding the 20% power increase. In all the time i have been modding cars, i have yet to see ANYONE done for having 20% more than factory. The only thing cops care about for LowVolume Certs are adjustable height suspension and motor swaps.

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Hi peoples,

Finished my fmic installation. I used an evo 4 fmic and a standard rb25det intercooler piping kit from trademe. Cost me $500 or so, which is not too bad.

Anyone wanting to use these coolers in the future, they are a great fit! There is no need to move the bonnet stay or air conditioning fan. I only had to shift the horns a little and cut the plastic bumper to fit the pipes around the sides and the intercooler in the front (lots of grill fins). I also had to shift the window washer water container out of the way of one of the pipes coming under the battery. I had to extend one side of the piping with an extra join since the pipes were made for a 600mm wide cooler and not a 500 or there abouts. Not much of a hastle though.

Here is how well it fits:

post-71520-0-79484000-1305429576_thumb.jpg

Still took us a while since we were all newbs :b

post-71520-0-79689400-1305429674_thumb.jpg

post-71520-0-38654700-1305429710_thumb.jpg

And the finished product:

post-71520-0-43546700-1305429739_thumb.jpg

cheers

Edited by senilykSkylines
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Question:

Why does my turbo seem to be louder? It is running the same boost as before. I did have to get rid of the pipe that had the valve which hooked the boost T to the intake. I connected the boost T with a T into the boost gauge line.

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so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum? (where the stock guage reads from)

previously it would have been reading from the compressor outlet pipe work or after the core

so there would likely be a bit of pressure difference between the two

ie what pressure is at the compressor wheel != pressure at the back of the plenum

imho, you should give the actuator a signal as close to the outlet as possible (r32 GTST style, which is from the compressor housing itself)

the further away, the more pressure loss you are compensating for (ie work compressor wheel harder)

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so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum? (where the stock guage reads from)

previously it would have been reading from the compressor outlet pipe work or after the core

so there would likely be a bit of pressure difference between the two

ie what pressure is at the compressor wheel != pressure at the back of the plenum

imho, you should give the actuator a signal as close to the outlet as possible (r32 GTST style, which is from the compressor housing itself)

the further away, the more pressure loss you are compensating for (ie work compressor wheel harder)

"so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum?"

Yeah, this is where the boost T line is hooked up to.

Do you see the blue rubber sleeve sitting on its own, on the pipe connecting to the stock intake pipe on the top of my engine? That is where I drilled a little hole planning to put it, but changed my mind and hooked it into the boost gauge line. The blue sleeve is where it was on the old pipe I took off.

Do you think I should cut a hole somewhere in the pipe nearer the turbo to get better reading? Or should I put it in the same place as it was. Or shouldn't it matter too much?

cheers.

Edited by senilykSkylines
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put it where it was before you starting playing around

thats how nissan set it up, thats probably the most suitable

at the back of the plenum you will be compensating for pressure loss making the compressor probably work harder (which is why its louder)

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So basically you could have bought an off the shelf kit and spent the same amount of money, and had a bigger core.

Im not hassling you, just pointing out that you went the EVO route because you didnt want to spend more than $500, and didnt want to cut away the bumper.

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So basically you could have bought an off the shelf kit and spent the same amount of money, and had a bigger core.

Im not hassling you, just pointing out that you went the EVO route because you didnt want to spend more than $500, and didnt want to cut away the bumper.

I went evo 4 because other people told me they were better cores than cheap new ones, they also fit better. I was mistaken that either way the plastic bumper had to be cut anyway. I tried to choose quality second hand rather than cheap new... as well as practicalities involved. Thanks for your advise tho. The cooler really is a great fit...

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agree with gotrice. not giving you a hard time

but we see lots of people trying to "fit" thats that arent meant to fit or werent designed for the skyline and end up spending more $ to make them fit or work

in the end you could have got an off the shelf kit for same price and it would have mated up etc

its becoming more common

things like xr6 turbo parts, evo parts

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And also, to be fair, a Mod on this forum Lithium uses one of these "cheap" Chinese cores on his R33, it doesnt struggle at and above 300rwkw. Id put money on the EVO one not being able to deal with that.

But in saying that, im sure at stock ish boost levels it will suffice for most duties.

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there isnt a lot of science to an intercooler core

as long as its big - how hard can it be

its a big heatsink

A guy at a shop warned me that they they were only for looks but lacked good flow. If I remember correctly, my tuner also told me not to get a cheap chinese one. Obviously they may be mistaken. I have to say the evo 4 intercooler fits better. Any bigger and it would have been a pig to find places for the bonnet stay etc.

post-71520-0-46058400-1305575332_thumb.jpg

post-71520-0-24451000-1305575352_thumb.jpg

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I guess it depends on how you think "fitting better" is.

Cos for the size of the bumper its far to small to fill the gap IMHO.

stmr33.jpg

Iim not 100% sure on what you mean by moving the bonnet stay? You shouldnt need to at all..

Thats my Blitz LM. Perfect fit :) No bonnet stay removal or anything. All i had to do was lean on the horn brackets to give them a slight bend. But ended up relocating them and exchanging them for 5series BMW horns in the passengers guard. And using the horn brackets for Oil cooler mounts :)

Good on you for giving it a go however. So long as your happy with it, and take the criticism as constructive. :thumbsup:

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I guess it depends on how you think "fitting better" is.

Cos for the size of the bumper its far to small to fill the gap IMHO.

stmr33.jpg

Iim not 100% sure on what you mean by moving the bonnet stay? You shouldnt need to at all..

Thats my Blitz LM. Perfect fit :) No bonnet stay removal or anything. All i had to do was lean on the horn brackets to give them a slight bend. But ended up relocating them and exchanging them for 5series BMW horns in the passengers guard. And using the horn brackets for Oil cooler mounts :)

Good on you for giving it a go however. So long as your happy with it, and take the criticism as constructive. :thumbsup:

cheers mate. I can take constructive critique :D. I am happy with it. I must have been getting confused with the bonnet stay. Really is a long story...

Nice car by the way. Looks immaculate, and I thought mine was in good condition.

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put it where it was before you starting playing around

thats how nissan set it up, thats probably the most suitable

at the back of the plenum you will be compensating for pressure loss making the compressor probably work harder (which is why its louder)

I am a little confused.

The Boost gauge is reading the same as when I had the smic @ 9.5 psi, give or take. So obviously the turbo is still blowing the pressure needed unless the Boost T is pinching pressure from the boost gauge line causing the gauge to lie. Though I have not altered the Boost T configuration so in theory it should be allowing the turbo to run 9 psi-ish anyway, the same as before.

Is it louder simply because it has to pressurize 4X the pipe length it had to before? Or thinner pipes letting more noise out? or I have a leak in a join somewhere and the turbo has to work harder to reach the 9 psi the Boost T is telling it to produce.

(Trying to make sense of why I would have to change it and trying to avoid finding someone to weld a new valve into the pipe work)

cheers.

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It will still be reading the same because your actuator and boost T are still set up to the same boost as they were before.

You will probly find that the intercooler core is amplifying the compressor sound too. It happens. I just put an alloy intake pipe on mine, and the induction noise is alot louder too.

I did notice an increase in noise with my Blitz LM core aswell.

Hows it all running? Im not sure if actuators are designed to have VAC on them or not. So hopefully it doesnt fail on you.

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